Frederichfeld Cemetery

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The Friedrichfeld Cemetery in Hunxe Germany was one of the creepiest places I sketched. In front of the monument I drew was a field of tiny headstones lying in the grass all  of which were for children who were less than 1 year old. I didn’t know the story behind these children until I got home and did some research.

In World War I Frederichfeld was the site of a prisoner of war camp run by the Germans. What I sketched was a memorial for the 246 French prisoners who died in the War of 1870–71. In 1916 a memorial was erected for the prisoners of war from the German Frederichfeld POW camp. French, British, Italian, Russian, Spanish Serbian, and Portuguese prisoners who died in the camp were all buried here. Memorial plaques in the cemetery were mutilated by vandals. One plaque said, “To their comrades who, after fighting bravely, lie in exile, their comrades erected this memorial with the greatest reverence, in remembrance in the year 1916.”

During World War II all the forced laborers from the present day city of Voerde Germany were buried in the cemetery. Men and women were forced to work in the armaments industry in Krupp and Essen Germany. The forced laborers camp was build in Voerde in 1944. Most were from the Ukraine and were buried here. There are 99 graves for  children who died in the Camp. They died mainly of malnutrition and infectious diseases in the winter of 1944-45.

The Voerde camp served as a collection center for babies born to Eastern European (primarily Polish and Soviet) forced laborers employed in the German war industry. German pure blood doctrine considered Soviets and Polish to be inferior races. The camp was designed  to ensure the children of “racially inferior” forced laborers would not survive, reconciling the Nazi need for labor with their goals of racial cleansing. The makeshift nurseries guaranteed the infants’ death if “race experts” determined the child was not capable of “Germanization”.  Some women tried to sneak into the camp to steel back their children. An unsuccessful attempt would mean certain death. It would be a rare miracle for a mother and her baby to be reunited.

Women in Nazi forced laborer camps were also systematically subjected to forced sterilization, both as part of the broader eugenics program and through brutal medical experimentation.

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March 17, 1945: Wallach Germany

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On March 10, 1945 Task Force Murray and the 137th Infantry Division advanced and seized Borch and Wallach Germany with light resistance.Task Force Murray was formed under the command of the 35th Infantry Division and included elements of Combat Command B (CCB) of the 8th Armored Division and the 137th Infantry Division. Specifically the 3rd Battalion of the 137th Infantry including Company K, captured the town of Wallach.

On the night of March 10, 1945, the 75th Infantry Division relieved Task Force Murray in the area around Kaldenkirchen, Germany. By March 11, 1945 the Allies had cleared the entire area West of the Rhine River. The plan was to gain a foothold on the eastern bank of the Rhine to then advance into Germany.

Between March 12 and 17th the 772nd Tank Destroyer Battalion was attached to the 75th Infantry Division. They were -repaired for direct fire on the West Bank of the Rhine River.

On March 17, 1945 Anti Tank guns were brought forward to a position south of Wallach Germany. The heavy artillery moved into Wallach was critical for the success of the crossing of the Rhine River. The gins fired until they were too hot to handle, barrels had to be replaced and entire artillery guns replaced.

On March 18, 1945 a squad from the 2nd Battalion of the 75th Infantry Division crossed the Rhine River and discovered defensive positions with 2-4 Germans. The squad made a detailed terrain study of the area noting roads through the German sector.

On March 21, 1945 a boat full of 5 man Germans was sighted near Company G of the 75th an infantry Division. Four Germans were killed and an officer captured. The goal of the 75th Infantry Division was to keep the Germans from gaining any intelligence about the impending Rhine River crossing.

On March 24, 1945 the Americans began the heavy artillery fire. There were 55 divisions of artillery. It would have been hell on earth on the opposite bank of the Rhine River. A-Company of the 772nd Tank Destroyer Division attached to the 75th Infantry Division fired 193 rounds and C-Company fired 23 interdiction rounds, 22 harassing rounds and 770 Normal rounds. 


Interdiction and Harassing rounds were a military tactic, especially associated with artillery and mortars, where standard High Explosive (HE) or other general-purpose shells were fired at suspected enemy areas, movement routes, or assembly points at random intervals, often throughout the night. The most common “normal” round for artillery was the High Explosive (HE) shell, which could be fitted with various fuzes (impact, graze, or time) to detonate at different times or upon impact. 

Aachen Germany: Siegfried Line

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The Siegfried Line known in Germany as the Westwall, was a German defensive line built during the late 1930s. Started in 1936, opposite the French Maginot Line, it stretched more than 390 miles from Kleve Germany on the border with the Netherlands, along the western border of Nazi Germany, to the town of Weil am Rhein Germany on the border with Switzerland. The line featured more than 18,000 bunkers, tunnels and tank traps.

German propaganda promoted the WestwWall as an impenetrable line. To counter this propaganda, a British song writer wrote a song titled: Hang Out the Washing on the Siegfried Line.

Finding these Dragon’s Teeth involved a long hike deep into the woods. It was a lovely hike to start. There were a few other people on the trail and then, as I got ready to sketch the sky once again threatened rain. When the rain hits, it comes in like a sheet of grey, darkening the woods. I worked fast knowing that I had a decent sketch from the previous day, of dragon’s teeth. These teeth were taller and more imposing and I suspect they had been cleaned off since there was far less moss growing on them.

From September 17-25 1945, Operation Market Garden, conceived by British Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery was a bold, single-thrust strategy designed to outflank the Siegfried Line from the north. The goal was to seize key bridges in the Netherlands with airborne troops and then have ground forces advance rapidly to link up with them, crossing the Rhine and pushing into Germany. The operation failed due to German resistance, a captured operational plan, and a slow ground advance down a single congested roadway, resulting in heavy losses for the airborne troops at Arnhem Netherlands.

After the failure of Market Garden, Supreme Commander Dwight D. General Eisenhower preferred a broad front approach to advance through the Siegfried line and into Germany. The American forces launched a slow advance, attacking strongpoints and bunkers directly all along the line. The 30th Infantry Division led an attack along a 14-mile front to clear areas and reduce the defenses. Other units, like the 1st and 28th Infantry Divisions, also engaged in hard-fought battles to breach the line. This method was a “grinding and bloody” approach that made slow, costly progress against the heavily fortified German positions. The Siegfried line was breached in October of 1944. By the time the 75th Infantry Division was crossing the Siegfried line in March of 1945, the hardest battles to push through the defenses had been fought. The next line was to cross the Rhine River.

The Siegfried Line

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West of the Roer River the 75th Infantry Division would have faced the Siegfried Line which is a a fortified area meant to stop an allied advance. There is not much of the Siegfried line still in existence today. After the war, many sections of the Siegfried Line were removed using explosives, but I found these “Dragon’s Teeth” in a forest in Aachen Germany.

The bunkers consisted mainly of unarmed shelters, which were built of concrete. The bunkers were often placed near agricultural farms for reasons of camouflage. Thinking a man Mande fortification might stop an army in World War II was rather medieval. Any modern mechanized army would find ways to move over or through such fortifications.

Since 1997, with the motto “The value of the unpleasant as a memorial”, an effort has been made to preserve the remains of the Siegfried Line as a historical monument. It was intended to stop reactionary fascist groups from using the Siegfried Line for propaganda purposes.

The Siegfried line in the area that the 75th Infantry Division moved through west of the Roer River was known as the Geldernstellung referring to the fortifications of the Westwall, in particular to the unarmed but massively built concrete bunkers from the Second World War. These bunkers were often referred to as “standard buildings” and were originally intended to camouflage the agricultural landscape, as they were built near farms.

The bunkers consisted mainly of unarmed shelters, which were built of concrete. The bunkers were often placed near agricultural farms for reasons of camouflage. Thinking a man made fortification might stop an army in World War II was a rather medieval  fantasy. Any modern mechanized army would find ways to move over or through such fortifications.

March 7, 1945: Heidhausen Germany

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On March 7, 1945bas part of OPERATION GRENADE, the 1st Battalion of the 75th Infantry Division assembled in Heidhausen Germany, south of Venlo Netherlands. The 2nd Battalion assembled in Bruch Germany and the 3rd a battalion assembled in Hulst Germany. I kept my focus on 1st Battalion since my father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thospecken was in charge of C-Company in the 1st Battalion. They were assembling to prepare to clear Venlo, Roermund and Leutherheide Germany.

OPERATION GRENADE involved crossing the flooded Roer River and driving the Germans back across the Rhine River to the east. The Rhine River was the last natural barrier keeping American troops from sweeping towards Berlin Germany.Rhine

Troops were billeted in the finest homes in town. For 3 days they screened the surrounding towns for prisoners of war, weapons and to clear any remaining pill boxes. Once this area was cleared they would push east to the Rhine River.

Today, Heidhausen is very much a small rural community. I parked the rental car on a small suburban street and then hiked out onto the long expanses of farming dirt roads. The community church in Bruch Germany can be seen in the distance.

March 7, 1945: Leutherheide Germany

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The 75th Infantry Division Command Post was in Leutherheide Germany on March 7, 1945. The troops were in Kaldenkirchen Germany a 10 minute drive to the west. During World War II Kaldenkirchen was located near the Siegfried line which was a critical German defensive position along the Western front. Allied forces encountered the Siegfried line in the final months of the war. The Rhineland campaign which involved allies clearing the area west of the Rhine and then crossing the Rhine River involved significant fighting in this area.

About 65 German soldiers marched into Leutherheide Germany. An allied patrol spotted the troops and reported their position back to the 135th Infantry Division headquarters. A convoy was assembles of anti tank guns, assorted vehicles and 7 jeeps carrying troops from Company’s K and L. When the American troops rolled into town the German troops were completely surprised. About 40 surrendered and the others fled. There were no casualties.

The saying on the large headstone with the German helmet on top, translated says…”We remember our hero’s.”

What I sketched was the Peter and Paul German War Graves in Leutherheide Germany. After completing the sketch I was getting back in the rental car when an old woman drive her motorized scooter up to my drivers door window. She asked me a question in German and I didn’t understand. She sounded upset or annoyed, soI decided to just show her my sketch. Then she pointed at the gate to the cemetery and I understood enough words to realize she wanted me to let her into the cemetery. I flipped open the squeaky iron latch and swung the gate open for her. She thanked me and motored inside. When I left the gate swung closed. Now I am wondering how she got back out of the cemetery. If she couldn’t open the gate going in, then she wouldn’t be able to open the gate to get back out.

 

March 8, 1945: Kaldenkirchen Germany

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The 8th Armored Division passing through Kaldenkirchen Germany on March 3rd with little resistance. March 6, 1945 the 75th Infantry was ordered to move to an assembly area south of Kaldenkirchen Germany. That troop movement was completed by March 7, 1945. On March 7th there was small arms fire near the 75th Infantry Command Post. The Headquarters and Service Companies were alerted but no enemy troops were found in the area.

On March 9, 1945, a jeep patrol from the 75th Infantry division hit an anti-tank mine just east of Kaldenkirchen in farm country, resulting in several casualties, including one killed in action. The night of 10 March 1945, the 75th Infantry Division relieved Task Force Murray of the 35th Infantry Division working with the 8th Armored Division. The bridges to Wesel across the Rhine River had been blown by retreating Germans and the movement across the Rhine, halted.

From March 8-11 1945 the 75th Infantry Division was involved in clearing the area around Kaldenkirchen Germany as well as Venlo and Roermund Netherlands. The 35th Infantry Division had accomplished a breakthrough in this area but did not have time to completely eliminate all the enemy installations in the area. It fell to the 75th Infantry Division to take out each installation one at a time. German prisoners were taken, suspected were processed, mine fields were marked to keep troops from injury and for future clearing and large quantities of weapons and ammunition were confiscated.

From March 13 to March 23, the 75th patrolled a sector along the west bank of the Rhine from Wesel to Homburg.

 

Tor to the Rhine

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In Orsoy Germany just south of Rhineberg Germany, I was walking back from sketching the ferry across the Rhine  River and decided to sketch the city gate. Orsoy used to be a walled in medieval fortress town. This gate or Tor in German faces west towards the Rhine. Steel doors have been added which can be shut if the river floods and gets to the city gate, or Tor in German.

My Air B&B host told me that the other gates to the city had to be demolished by the American troops because the American Sherman tanks could not fit through them.  This gate is larger than the rest and therefore survived the war. By March 31, 1945 there were 3 Treadway Bridges, 2 Bailey Bridges and a Heavy Pontoon Bridge built across the Rhine. No bridge was build at Orsoy, so I don’t think the 75th Infantry would have crossed there. I also know that the 75th crossed before the first of the bridges was built, they went across with landing craft.

The 79th Infantry Division likely did cross the Rhine on a treadway bridge north or Orsoy Germany  as they invaded Dinslaken Germany. A  Treadway Bridge was built by the 17th Armored Engineer Battalion, The M2 Steel Treadway Bridge, is a modular floating bridge system used by the U.S. Army to cross rivers with heavy vehicles, . had over 1152 feet of  steel runway treads and 93 pneumatic floats. The project required just six hours and fifteen minutes to complete, setting a record for the size of the bridge. The Treadway Bridge was the fasted to build. The Bailey Bridges built were much sturdier.

Regardless of the bridge crossing sites, I believe the 75th Infantry Division, C-Company, lead by my father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken  would have crossed much further to the north. They would have crossed just south of Wesel Germany and then crossed the Lippe Canal to clear the area between the Canal and the Lippe River. I thought the canal locks likely were used to make their way north across the canal, but the German military destroyed bridges over the Lippe Canal near places like Hunxe as Allied forces pushed into Germany in 1944 and 1945. It only makes sense for the 75th Infantry to cross the Rhine right where the Lippe Canal and the Lippe River empty onto the Rhine. That small strip of land they would mean they crossed at or just south of Buderich Germany. So you can see that knowing exact;y where the troops were is a bit of a guessing game, but new facts help to zone in on the truth.

 

Koblinz Germany: The Patron Saint of Artillerymen

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This sketch marked a deviation from the military route of the 75th Infantry Division. I drove several hour south to Koblenz Germany to visit with my very distant cousin Nini Thorspecken-Friebe. To help cut the weight of my travels at the start, I shipped 6 empty sketchbooks to Nini from America. That saved considerably on the weight I would have to carry when I flew into Europe. Since I decided that a car rental was the only way to accomplish this sketch project, I could pick up the six sketchbooks and keep them in the trunk of the car.

On day one of this trip I had my identity stolen with someone trying to buy a plane ticket to Amsterdam using my credit card information. I had to cut the credit card in half and Seacoast Bank refused to work out a way that I could access the money I had saved for travel expenses. The only way the bank would allow expenses is if I had the new credit card they were sending out. The problem of course was that I was constantly on the move in Europe. I had that card shipped to my brother in Connecticut and then he sent it to Nini where I picked it up on September 28. I had to be clandestine about the process since the bank was treating me as if I was a criminal. That first month of travel was rough, but I always found something to eat. Apples and and pears were plentiful in the Netherlands. I would always throw fruit in my art bag if I saw them roadside.  The first month was certainly a lesson in keeping expenses low. The habit persists. If a breakfast buffet has apples in a bowl, one will always leave with me.

In Koblenz, I stayed in an Air B&B which was in the old city. Built in the 1600s the place was constructed in the traditional style with large wooden beams and stucco. The top floor room I had wasn’t build for someone who is six foot two. I bumped my head a few times and started to walk hunched over. A block away was Mozart’s childhood home. There was so much history in such a small cramped area.

The Barbara Monument is only a block or so from where Nini and her husband Raoul live in Koblenz. The Barbara-Monument features the central figure of Saint Barbara holding a gun barrel and palm branch, flanked by two allegorical figures representing War and Peace. Saint Barbara is the patron saint of artillerymen. I didn’t realize there was a patron saint of artillerymen. Besides being a monument it also functions as a fountain, although the water feature was off when I did the sketch.

Nini and Raul treated me to a very traditional German breakfast. Small breads rolls are called brötchen in German. There were meats and cheeses, jams and Nutella, and locks. The royal touch is a hard boiled egg prepared just right so the yoke is semi solid but a bit runny. The egg top is cut off and a tiny spoon is used to scoop out the egg white and yoke. I made it a point to try and find places that offered such a delicious spread to start the day.

Raoul really seemed to appreciate my project. He is in the German military as a medic. He is an anesthesiologist. He showed me his military backpack which I absolutely envied. I asked him about where he thought I might see the dragons teeth which were set up on the western front before World War II to stop an allied advance into Germany. He had plenty of suggestions. When he saw my sketch of the Sherman tank decked out as a mine sweeper, he pulled up YouTube videos that showed the vehicle in action. When Raoul saw sketches of beautiful Belgian cities with historic buildings surrounding a large square, he lamented that Germany once had such beautiful city centers before World War II saw them all destroyed.

He and Nini are world travelers. They have a map in their apartment that shows all the countries they have been to. It is an impressive display. I should set up a color coded map some day. Nini took me up in a lift which went across the Rhein River to the Koblenz Ehrenbreistein, which is a huge fort that acted as a military barracks. I had a-ent many days looking for a route across the Rhine River and now I found myself floating over the river on a lift.

Koblenz is on the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine River so it is importantly militarily. That evening after the sun set, I walked a long path down from the fort, not exactly sure where the path would lead me to. Descending that dark path as the sun set behind the Koblenz skyline on the opposite shore of the Rhine, I felt this really was an adventure. I was hoping to resolve the tech issue with my laptop refusing to power up, and the financial problems of dealing with SeaCoast Bank. I couldn’t solve everything in the one weekend but at least the wheels were in motion. For this one moment, walking in the dark, I felt at peace.

During World War II Koblenz hosted the command of German Army Group B and, like many German cities, was heavily bombed and rebuilt afterwards. From March 16-19, 1945, it was the scene of heavy fighting by the U.S. 87th Infantry Division in support of Operation Lumberjack. The 75th Infantry Division was much further north fighting in the Ruhr pocket of Germany at the time.

The sketch opportunities in Koblenz were endless, but I needed to get back north and on the trail of the 75th Infantry Division’s movements into the heart of Germany.

Crossing the Rhine River

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It turned out there was a very simple route to get to the Rhine River from Rheinberg Germany. Just south of Rheinberg is the town of Orsoy which has a ferry that crosses cars over the River. Since this is a narrow crossing site, my Air B&B host was convinced this is where my father would have crossed the Rhine. However I have a detailed military map that shows three crossing sites further north. I am convinced the 75th Infantry division would have crossed at the northern most crossing sites since records show that they were the northern most troops along the western edge of the Rhine. To the north of the 75th Infantry Division, Montgomery’s British Infantry Divisions began.

I stayed at an Air B&B in Alpen Germany and according to the military map I have that town was the division line between the British troops and the American Troops. I actually returned to Alpen Germany a second time when I realized the 75th Infantry had been just south of the town and very likely in the town.

I hiked to the ferry south of Orsoy Germany. A motorcyclist was the first to arrive to wait for the ferry. He waited a while for another motorcyclist and they compared their tricked out bikes.  Several cars lined up and then the ferry arrived from the western shore of the Rhine. The ferry kept sailing back and forth as long as cars lined up at the docking points. I considered sketching on the ferry but realized the trip would not have allowed enough time to get a sketch. The biggest landmark at the crossing site was a huge nuclear reactor on the western shore. That was certainly not at the river’s edge in 1945.

The 75th Infantry Division was in position on the western shore of the Rhine by March 13, 1945 in Rheinberg and Buderich Germany. Since the 75th Infantry Division was tasked with clearing the area between the Lippe River and the Lippe Canal, I decided that the most likely crossing sites would be at Buderich Germany. Buderich is famous for being the site where General Montgomery showed Winston Churchill  how the Rhine River crossings were proceeding. This  happened on March 25, 1945 one day after the 75th Infantry Division had already made the crossing.

On the day that the 75th Infantry Division made their crossing, a pontoon bridge was under construction near Wallach Germany where American heavy artillery was stationed. That bridge was completed at 4pm and it would have been the first bridge across the Rhine but a landing craft got swept up in the river’s current and it crashed into the structure, dismantling it. The 75th didn’t have the luxury of a bridge, they had to make the crossings in small landing craft.

On the 1945 Military map there is a place called Milchplatz. It isn’t a town, but rather a gravel mining company that is still in operation today. I found this out the hard way on one of my hikes east from Rhineberg Germany to get to the Ruhr River. I was making good progress when the Milchplatz mining facility blocked my movement east. Closed metal gates blocked the path east. Since it is private property, I abandoned the hike to the Rhine. If I was tenacious, I probably could have hiked around the large mining facility, but I didn’t want to hike off trail to accomplish that task. I just satisfied myself that I got very close to the southern most crossing site of the three in the 75th Infantry Division’s area of operations. I am convince that would have crossed further north.

The 75th on the military map was identified as a covering force. A covering force operates in conjunction with a larger force with the role of providing a strong outpost line, in this case to the north. The covering force is capable of operating independently of the main force. A covering force usually operated forward of the main force in offense or defense.