Rhineberg Germany: The Gate of the Dead

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The Gate of the Dead was inaugurated on June 17, 1964 and it commemorates all the victims of the wars of 1866, 1870-1871, World War I 1914-1918, and World War II 1939-1945, from Rhineberg–Mitte Germany. It is a symbolic Gate opening to the east made of meter high shells of Rhine gravel cement. Some surfaces of the vertical shells are smooth while others are rough as if exposed due to bomb blasts. The two shells enclose a large bronze plate which had three bronze crosses on the front and a large inscription on the back which says, “We have gone before you in dark times. Remember us and see the will of him who gives and takes away.” The names of  650 war victims are imbedded in the ground in the inner area.

For the Second World War there are 300 fallen soldiers, 95 missing, 60 civilian victims of bombings,  20 victims of flight and 10 deaths from concentration camps listed. All the victims were men woman and children from Rhineberg. They were Christians, Jews and people of no faith.

The Gate of the Dead is not a war memorial, it is instead a beacon of hope that people might someday abandon war and tyranny.

The Gate of the Dead is right behind a day care.   I could hear the screams of children at play the whole time I sketched. Townspeople walk their dogs around the paths that run past the edifice. The Gates remind me of the entrance to Jurassic Park. I liked that a distant barren tree lined up right in the middle of the sliver of the entrance.

This edifice was not here in 1945 as the 75th Infantry Division stood at the western side of the Rhine River about to cross the largest water barrier between them and Berlin Germany. The 75th Infantry Division would ultimately not advance as far as Berlin. General Eisenhower decided that he would let the Soviets advance to Berlin from the East, and the goal of the American troops would be to cripple the German war effort by destroying the Industrial Ruhr area which was the backbone of  the German war machine.

The 75th Infantry Division was going to cross the Rhine just south of the Lippe River. Their objective would be to clear the area between the Lippe River and the Lippe Canal. This is a very narrow strip of land which eventually would lead to Dorsten Germany. The troops had to wait at the Rhine river’s edge for the start of what would be known as OPERATION PLUNDER.

 

Rheinberg Germany: Suicide Corner

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Before walking to the Rhine River, I had to stop and sketch the downtown architecture of Rhineberg Germany. These buildings likely stood here 80 years ago if they were not destroyed by allied bombings. I was seated in front of a Pizza-Donner shop that was just opening. The proprietor was getting the oven fired up and he came out on occasion to check and see my progress.

On March 5, 1945, just before the 75th Infantry Division arrived, the 36 Tank Battalion, Company D rolled in to capture the town, which was an escape route for the Germans to get across the Rhine River to Wesel Germany.

Every American officer of Company D, was killed or severely wounded in the action at Rheinberg. The company lost one soldier to sniper fire as they moved north of Kamp-Lintford Germany towards Rheinberg. The Germans were well dug in in the woods outside of the town with anti tank guns. They defended the town fiercely. In an open field to the east, there were two German 88’s entirely un camouflaged, and one very well camouflaged began firing. The American tanks backing away while firing desperately at very few visible targets. Besides the 88s there was heavy small arms fire coming from many directions. The American tank Battalion rallied at a factory which offered cover before once again advancing toward Rheinberg.

B Company knocked out four 88s and six 20mm guns protecting the larger weapons. These guns were in addition to a half -track, a tank and a truck also knocked out by the company.

The capture of Rhineberg came at a heavy cost. The 36th Tank Battalion, Company D, which had been ordered to attack from the southwest, left 17 of its 18 tanks in flames along the road and the remaining tank had to be withdrawn. The 49th Armored Infantry Battalion suffered 68 casualties, while the 36th had 131 either wounded or killed in action. From the German ranks, 512 prisoners were taken and 350 killed. The 36th Tank Battalion lost a total of 41 tanks. Company B had lost all but six tanks. Company A fared somewhat better, but a final count showed 11 of its tanks knocked out.

The next day, Rheinberg, though cleared of the enemy, also remained under heavy mortar, tank and artillery fire with the Germans concentrating their fire on the area near the town’s church. This area was soon dubbed “Suicide Corner” and those who were wise, went through it on the double, ready to hit the dirt as soon as they heard the ominous whistle of an inbound shell.

Deins! Rhineberg Germany

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I took a second day in Rhineberg Germany to try and figure out exactly where the 75th Infantry Division would have crossed the Rhine River. I treated myself to a nice traditional German breakfast (fruhstuck). I was proud of myself for ordering breakfast in German, although I am sure the waitress knew I was English. I am glad I went here to sketch the dark wood beams and quaint interior. Who doesn’t love a gnome behind the bar?

The owner’s dog sat nervously by the bar waiting for her morning walk. There were mini bread rolls and cheese with ham, tomatoes, lettuce, jams Nutella and here boiled eggs that are served in an upright cup. You cut the top off of the egg shell and then scoop out the egg inside. I have come to like eggs served this traditional German way.

The waitress stopped by a few times to look over my shoulder and when I was done she asked to take a photo for the restaurant Facebook page and I let her. I knew I would be hiking a lot to find a route to the Rhine River from the town, I knew that many routes would be blocked by private farms and businesses. Back in 1945, the troops would have marched right through such obstacles and the civilians population would have evacuated.

The owner of the Air B&B I was staying in knew quite a bit about the World War 2 history of the area. He felt that the troops would have crossed at a spot just south of the town where there is a ferry crossing today. I listened intently, but didn’t quite agree since I saw a war map of the area and it showed 3 distinct crossing sites north and west of Rheinberg. I wanted to hike to each of those sites if it was possible. The 79th Infantry might have taken the southern route my Air B&B host was suggesting.

The rental car was often a problem since there was no parking available on those small country roads. I would leave the car in a town and then hike through the farm country towards the river. There were biking and walking trails along the river so once I got to those I should be golden. I knew the three crossing sites encircled a large curve in the river. With a full belly from a big breakfast, I set off to hike my way to the Rhine crossing sites.

American intelligence had identified the remnants of 21 German divisions lined up across the Rhine, but all were believed to be exhausted, seriously understrength, and incapable of putting up a sustained fight. Hitler’s hope of drawing a firm line at the Rhine was dashed on March 7, 1945 when elements of the 9th U.S. Armored Division captured the still-standing Ludendorff railroad bridge over the 980-foot-wide Rhine at the town of Remagen, between Cologne and Koblenz Germany. The allies had a clear path into Germany8 from that one crossing site. Every other span across the river had been destroyed. A massive mobilization began with engineers, soldiers, equipment and supplies being prepared for one of the most important river crossings of WWII.

March 12, 1945: Rheinberg Germany, Fallen

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On March 12 1945 at 9:35 PM the 75th Infantry Division  replaced the 135th Infantry Division in Rheinberg Germany. Rheinberg is a quaint little village on the west short of the Rhine just south of Wiesel on the opposite shore. There was a change of course for the Rhine River over the years, so Rhineberg isn’t as close to the river as it used to be. It was a walled city in medieval times and there are some remnants of the ancient walls that remain.

From the village center I decided to hike straight east towards the Rhine. There was a path between the church and a day care that lead to a wide open field. As I crossed the field I began to hear heavy traffic in front of me. The feeling that I might hike right to the waters edge just like in 1945 began to fade. I probably could have sprinted across that highway, but this fallen tree caught my eye. It must have been stuck by lightning or snapped in a very heavy wind because the tree was splintered like a toothpick.

With the fallen tree leaning forward, it looked like it was struggling to get back to its roots. To me it looks like a man leaning forward as he gets ready to run. So much of what I have been sketching is architectural, a church, a headquarters a village square, and I decided I can just observe nature as well. The times I feel I am truly walking in my father’s footsteps are these quiet moments wandering across a field or through the woods with my hiking boots getting wet from the dew, and navigating by the direction of the sun.

On the 24th of March the Rhine River crossings started. Code named OPERATION FLASHPOINT, the Ninth US Army’s assault was lead by General William H. Simpson. Montgomery’s 21st Army Group occupied the northern part of the Allied line, but it lacked adequate combat power to execute main effort operations on its own. The American Army was well equipped with plenty of supplies and artillery ire power. The two field armies with the British Second Army in the north and the Ninth US Army in the south, would cross the Rhine abreast at four crossing sites. A massive artillery barrage would precede the crossing, after which the war’s largest deployment of paratroopers in a single-lift, OPERATION VARSITY, would take place across the Rhine, just north of Wesel Germany.

The 290th Infantry, 75th Infantry Division, C-Company would  cross the Rhine on March 26, 1945.

March 10-13 1945: Kamp-Lintfort Germany

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On March 10, 1945 the 75th Infantry Division Command Post was at Kamp-Lintford Germany. The 75th Infantry troops were also moved to an assembly area near Kamp-Lintford to replace elements of the 35th Infantry Division. The replacemts happened under the cover of darkness, because the Germans were so close on the opposite side of the Rhine River. The 75th then took up positions on the western side of the Rhine River waiting for the opportunity to cross. They were positioned along the Rhine River from Buderich in the north to Rheinberg Germany in the south. Positions were established by March 13, 1945. The Canadian 156th Brigade occupied a position just to the left of the 75th Infantry Division.

After sketching and studying maps of the area, I decided that C-Company likely would have been in a position to cross the Rhine at Buderich Germany. Outposts were established and patrols sent out to secure the West Bank of the Rhine. Engineers and mine platoons set about defusing the many mines buried by the retreating German Army.

An 11 man 75th Infantry patrol crossed the Rhine River on March 16, 1945 but encountered enemy resistance and had to retreat, gaining no  information about the far shore. Another 11 man patrol from the 75th Infantry 2nd battalion crossed the same night and they succeeded to advance some distance into the enemy territory. They found several abandoned enemy positions.

1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was leading C-Company which was part of the 1st Battalion. I do not know yet if they were on one of these dangerous recon Rhine River crossing missions.

Another objective of the 75th Infantry was to veil American operations and objective’s of XVI Corps. As far as is known no German assault boat squad was successful in gaining information about the American positions. The planned Rhine crossing near Wesel Germany, on the northern part of the Rhine, was to be the largest amphibious and airborne operation mounted since D-Day. It’s success depended on absolute secrecy.

Positions remained static with occasional rounds of artillery fire. “On March 10, 1945, the XVI Corps successfully completed its mission in Ninth Army’s Operation “Grenade.” From 23 February until the completion of this operation, this Corps has undergone many types of combat, including a river crossing, rapid pursuit of the fleeing enemy, and tough, slow fighting against a determined enemy who, by every form of defensive fighting, was attempting to protect his last escape routes across the Rhine in the Wesel Area.’” – JOHN B. ANDERSON
Major General, U. S. Army, Commanding

The Rheinberg War Cemetery which I sketched is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. The majority of the servicemen who died are buried in the countries where they fell. There are 3335 English and American casualties buried in this cemetery. The cemetery was first opened in 1946. Most of the casualties are air men who died in air raids over Germany. Their bodies were often buried where the planes crashed, by a roadside, riverbank or in a forest. There are also 400 soldiers buried here who died on the advance from the Rhine River into Germany,

March 5, 1945: Crossing the Roer River into Germany

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The 75th Infantry Division had to wait on the western side of the Roer River for several weeks because the Germans had destroyed a dam up river and flooded the entire river valley. The river ain’t that wide in peace time, maybe about 25 to 50 yards.

OPERATION GRENADE which was a push from the Rowe River to the Rhine River began on February 6, 1945, once the waters had subsided a bit. The 75th Infantry likely crossed the Roer south of Heinsberg and north of Geilenkirchen Germany. After studying maps of the area, I decided Hilfarth Germany fits in the sweet spot where the troops might have crossed the river.

A historical sign at Hilfarth pointed out that American troops used the bridge to advance over the Roer River. The bridge was partially destroyed but perhaps only passable by foot. The bridge was repaired and reopened to car traffic on May 18, 1949.

The 75th Infantry was part of the 9th Army Group under General William Hood Simpson. On March 1, 1945 the 75th Infantry was assigned to the XVI Corps as they advanced into Germany. by March 5, 1945 the 75th had advanced as far as Rheinberg Germany. C-Company commanded by 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was among the most northerly of the American Troops with the British to their left in the north. The British push to the Rhine River from the Roer was known as OPERATION VERITABLE  The 75th took up a defensive position on the Rhine just south of Wesel Germany on the opposite side of the Rhine.

All of these movements seemed so abstract when I read them at first but once I followed the route and sat to sketch the Roer River, things fell into place and made sense to me. Once C-Company of the 7th Infantry got to the Rhine, they stayed behind the levies during the day and patrolled along the rivers edge at night. The goal of C-Company was to keep the Germans in the dark about when and where the 9th army would cross the Rhine River. If the Germans found any intelligence about the next crossing, then many American lives would be lost.

Heinsberg Germany Jewish Memorial

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just to the south east of Roermond Netherlands, across the border is Heinsberg Germany. This memorial was placed in a quiet park setting next to a busy intersection. When I started to sketch, school children were making their way home from school, shouting and playing along the fence that borders the memorial space. The memorial was placed in honor of the Jewish citizens of Heinsberg who are victims of the holocaust.

When Hitler came into power, the Jewish citizens of Heinsberg Germany suffered. Anti Jewish leaflets circulated in the town stated: “Whoever still has honor and pride, does not buy from Jews”. All Jewish goods were boycotted. A tannery in Heisenberg was used to supply food to Jewish residents after krystalnacht (night of broken glass), when Jewish businesses had store windows broken and stores destroyed. The Heisenberg Synagogue was burned on krystalnacht. The Jewish cemetery was desecrated and destroyed. It is not possible to establish how many Heisenberg citizens helped Jews escape across the border into the Netherlands. One midwife paid for her efforts to help with her life. Despite a few citizens trying to help, the Jews were deported east where they  disappeared. Few Jewish residents ever returned home.

Heinsberg was heavily damaged during World War II particularly during the Battle of the Bulge and then OPERATION BLACKCOCK,  which cleared Germans from the area around the Netherlands border. The fighting involved fierce combat between German and British troops. The 75th Infantry Division was not involved in these battles but did operate along the Rhine River near the area in February-March 1945 after crossing from the west bank. The division’s combat actions included a patrol of the Rhine from Wesel to Homburg, a rest period in Luneville, and then moving to patrol a defensive front along the Maas River near Roermond, Netherlands, which was just west of the German border. 

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Overloon Netherlands: Russian Tank

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The Russian tanks in WWII never went as far west as Overloon Netherlands. The Russians stopped when they got to Berlin Germany. I was advised by the director of Museum44 in Overloon Netherlands to go to the  Oorlags Museum of Overloon. This Russian tank was parked in the woods leading to the museum.

The Battle of Overloon was fought in the Second World War between Allied forces and the German Army which took place in and around the village of Overloon in the south-east of the Netherlands between 30 September and 18 October 1944. The battle was an Allied victory, after the Allies launched Operation Aintree. Signs in the wooded area leading up to the museum reminded visitors that much of the fighting happened right in this wooded area

This tank is the T-34 with an 85 mm cannon. It weighs 35 tons. It was a notorious tank because it had firepower, solid armor and was very mobile. It’s designed allowed for mass production. About nine times more T-34s left the factory than German Panzer tanks. Since these tanks were fighting on Germany’s eastern front, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken probably never saw a T-34. He most certainly would have seen German Panzer tanks.

The director of Museum44 was kind enough to call someone he knew at the Oorlags Museum so that a curator could show me items in the museum that tied in directly to the period I was researching which was in late February and early March of 1945.

The Oorlags museum is cavernous with hundreds of military vehicles on display. Having the curator walk me directly to several American Sherman tanks made my life so much easier since I am no expert on makes and models of military hardware.

One entire area of the museum is devolved just to displaying the thousands of different types of shells that were in use to kill the enemy. War is a crazy vicious business. As I was doing this sketch it started to rain. Those are the explosions you see all over the page.

March 2-5, 1945: Buchten, Netherlands

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On March 2, 1945, the 290th, 75th Infantry was moved by motor convoy to an assembly areas in  Buchten, Born and Holtum, Netherlands. They only spent a few hours in these locations before being moved again by motor convoy to an Area near Venlo, Netherlands. They didn’t get comfortable in Venlo, because they were then almost immediately alerted that they were to move forward to another assembly area in Westerbrock, Germany. This is where the 75th infantry entered Germany for the first time. Troops were anticipating a final push into Berlin to end the war.

While doing this drawing, a woman asked if I would like a coffee. She lived across the street behind where I was sketching. Before she came back with the warm drink, it started to rain, so I decided the sketch was done. I ran for the cover of a building awning and packed up my art supplies in my day bag. I was debating if I should wander off, but then heard the woman shouting, “Come inside”. It turns out she is an artist as well. She works somewhat abstract with patched of gold leaf in the paintings. She was working on a floral mural in the hallway of her home which will look amazing when done.

Then I met her husband and her son and his friend who were maybe around 10, or 12. I had actually seen these two several times as I was sketching, but they were always playing off to my right, so I didn’t include them in the sketch. I explained my project as we had coffee. Thankfully the woman and he husband spoke English. Then there was a video call to the daughter who is getting married soon and is living in NYC and planning to become a lawyer. It was fun talking to her since ai lived in NYC for 10 years. Then the daughter said, “Alright mom, I’m going to leave you to your new bestie.” It was endearing to see mom test up after the video call was over.

Then outside in the distance I could hear a band playing with snare drums and brass, and the marcking music got closer. Mom shouted that I had to see the parade. It was a celebration for the master marksman in town. He wore a vest of large golden metals and was escorted by a mysterious woman all in black. Behind the marksman marched a phalanx of men all holding rifles. The rifles were just carved pieces of wood. This tradition has been going on since long before WWII so I was told I had to see it. There was no time to set up and get a sketch. I took 2 quick iPhone photos and the moment was gone.

After the parade was over, mom took me in her car to see the local military cemetery where some British soldiers are interned. I took a photo of the cemetery entrance so I could return. The woman told me she had recently met a rather famous magician who did sleight of hand tricks. He offered to do a performance for her and her friends and they were all amazed. I wondered if it was an amazing sleight of hand magician I had met at the Orlando International Fringe Festival, but I doubt it. She couldn’t recall his name. She felt that she h as started meeting more talented people, but that is what happens when you are curious and open to what the universe throws your way.

Bus Ride to The Woodring Wall and Museum

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Mt father was a 1st Lieutenant of the 75th Infantry Division. The 2025 reunion for the 75th was being held in Oklahoma City, so I had to go to see what I could find out that might help as I make plans to follow in my fathers footsteps through Europe.

There were several day trips planned. One to the Oklahoma National Memorial & Museum and the other to the Woodring Wall & Museum. The bus ride was a solid one and a half hours, so I had plenty of time to get a sketch done. I was also given a paperback book that was a history of the 75th Infantry so I read that on the bus ride back.

The bus driver gave us all one important warning. He said that there was a bathroom at the back of the bus but he advised against against any number twos. I’m guessing the thing doesn’t flush very well. He also advised that men sit down since he didn’t want anyone falling down with all the side to side movement of the bus.

What I recall most about the bus trip was all the gorgeous wide open countryside and and endless line of wind mills. Like an airline, there was a safety video on the multiple screens hanging over the seats.

When the buss pulled into the air field, I could see the Vietnam memorial wall. There were few name to start and then each panel filled up to it’s full height. At the far end of the long wall the names compressed once again as the wall angles down in a triangular fashion. This wall is a miniature replica of the Memorial in Washington, DC designed by then undergraduate,  Maya Ying Lin. To find the name of a loved one it is best to use the index which tells youo what panel to look at. Names on the wall are arranged chronologically, so it might take a long time to search the 58,318 names of Americans who had been killed in action. The printed index allows you to search fr the name alphabetically.

On the bus ride back to Oklahoma City, I read the 75th Infantry history ind underlined sections to double check against the list of cities and engagements I was compiling for my trip through, France, Belgium, Netherlands and Germany. Many accounts of what happened in the later days of WWII don’t pin point the actual days or even the cities, so I have to cross reference everything to come p with a unified plan of attack.