At the end of my trip through Europe, following in the footsteps of my father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken, I discovered that a double hernia had developed at the base of my pelvis. All the hiking I had been doing should have been good for my health, and it was. I lost plenty of weight but perhaps the weight loss revealed the hernia which may have already been developing. In my mind the hernia happened overnight. The Airbnb I was staying in had free coffee. I never drink coffee, but I decided to try a cup that night. It tasted good, so I had another cup.
In the morning, as I was getting dressed, I noticed the two rather large bulges at my pelvis. I panicked. My health insurance had been canceled because of my travels. I scoured the interned to self diagnose the situation. It was not life threatening as I at first thought. I was fine with it unless I had to lift something heavy. My heaviest object was my backpack full of sketchbooks. I decided I could live with it and then I would get it fixed once I got back to the United States.
This trip to the Urologist was a check up on a previous operation I had which was to remove my prostate. For that operation a laser had been shoved up my flag pole and the prostate was burned away with the laser beam. It was a high tech solution. I wondered if a laser bean blast had ricocheted and caused the hernias. One internet article confirmed that was a possibility.
At this visit with the doctor’s assistant, she denied that the previous operation could be the cause. She gave me a referral to a doctor who handled hernia repairs. I had the prostate removed so that I would not need to urinate as often as I did. Traveling in Europe I found that I still had to urinate far too often. I took a pee in just about every German landmark that I sketched. A sketch takes about two hours to complete and by that time I would have to pee like a race horse. A side effect to the double hernia is a constant need to pee. The doctor’s assistant prescribed a pill that helps reduce the urgency, but my Ambetter Insurance refused to fill the prescription.
My sister in Punta Gorda Florida had the double hernia repair surgery. Her case was much worse than mine. She had to have the surgery done multiple times because the doctors botched the repair. One doctor finally fixed all the botched operations and she has been fine ever since. I started looking for information about that doctor online.
My primary goal, and the reason I was staying in Florida was to get this operation done. I would have to face sketching a series of doctor’s office waiting rooms. This wait wasn’t very long. I only had enough time to put some lines on the page and add three washes to cover the page.




While under German occupation, the cafes in Reims France were typically restricted, serving limited goods, and often frequented by German officers or, in secrecy, by members of the French Resistance.
American soldiers on leave in WWII Rheims frequented the city center for relaxation, with key spots including the iconic Notre-Dame de Reims cathedral, the Lycée Roosevelt (site where Germany signed the unconditional surrender in the war room), local cafes for coffee, and areas to enjoy Champagne, capitalizing on the city’s role as a major hub for the U.S. Army. There was an American officers’ club in Reims, France, known as Club du Chateau.
My second stop on the drive back to Paris was Reims France. Rheims was the city where Germany unconditionally surrendered on May 7, 1945, at 2:41am. However, the Soviets had not yet officially approved the text of the Instrument of Surrender signed in Reims. The Soviets insisted that the proper signing ceremony must not take place in France, but right in the fallen Reich’s heart, in Berlin. They also insisted on certain changes in the text of the Instrument of Surrender, insisting it state unambiguously that all German troops were required to give up their arms and hand themselves over to the Allies. Therefor on May 8, 1945, there was another, grander, more formal ceremony in Berlin Germany.
My Father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was serving occupation duty in the area of Hemer where Stalag VI-A was located as well as Iserlohn and Plettenburg Germany when Germany surrendered. He held on to the Stars and Strips newspaper announcing the surrender for the rest of his life. I now have that very yellow and fragile newspaper with the full-page headline NAZIS QUIT! Arthur must have been ecstatic that the European war was over. The 75th Infantry marching band celebrated by marching through the streets of Plettenberg Germany playing patriotic music.
After sketching in Plettenburg Germany, I arranged to visit distant Thorspecken cousins in Wiesbaden Germany. Back in 1994 I visited all of the Thorspecken relatives I could find based on researching my family tree. One relative was a professional flute player for the state theater in Weisbaden. When I interviewed her back in 1994, she was nursing her newborn baby girl. That child was just married, and she helped me on this project by agreeing to allow me to ship the empty sketchbooks to her home in Koblinz Germany. When my first sketchbook was completely full, I drove to Koblinz to pick up the other 6 sketchbooks and was treated to a delicious traditional German breakfast in their home..
Wiesbaden became a military base during WWII for the General Command of the XII Army Corps and the 3rd battalion of the 38th Infantry Regiment. It was also a target for Allied bombings because of its industrial support for the Nazi war machine. Allied bombing raids targeted Wehrmacht facilities, the Glyco-Metalworks production plant, the Dyckerhoff and sons cement works, Kalle chemical works, the Albert chemical plant among others. There were frequent attacks on both industrial and residential areas. By the end of the war, around 30% of Wiesbaden’s buildings had been destroyed.
I parked in a muddy ditch on the side of the country road near the intersection which was right next to the field where Camp Cleveland used to be 80 years ago. I had a WWII war map that pinpointed this exact location. Some sensors on the car beeped loudly which made it clear the car didn’t like the spot I was parked. I hoped the tires would not spin in the mud when I started the car back up. At this intersection was a granite memorial for World War I. Wind whipped across the empty fields. On occasion a large farming truck would roar by. Strangely the spot reminded me of a scene from the Alfred Hitchcock film
The War Memorial of Val de Vesle was erected in 1957 which was long after my father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken left Europe. This memorial commemorates the French offensives of April 1917. The involved units were: VIIIe Armée: 85 RI, 95 RI, 27 RI, 1 RAC, 37 RAC. The memorial is at the intersection of D34 and See Liberty. I doubt anyone ever stops here. This was one of the first sketches I did upon entering Europe since it was on the road leading to the American Reenactment camp I first sketched when I left Paris France. Since I don’t read French, I at first though the WWI monument might have been on this spot when Camp Cleveland was a cross the street 80 years ago.
Plettenberg, Germany was the last 75th Infantry Division command post in 1945 at the end of World War II. My father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was leading C-Company of the 75th Infantry Division. The 75th was tasked with occupation duty in a large area around Plettenberg Germany, known as Westphalia.
On May 8, 1945 Nazi Germany signed an unconditional surrender of its armed forces to the Allied forces. The Stars and Stripes newspaper headline declared, NAZIS QUIT! Donitz Gives Order. Grand Admiral Donitz, Adolphthe successor to Adolph Hitler. Ordered the surrender. Celebrations broke out in New York City and London immediately. The 75th Infantry band marched through Plettenberg to celebrate the good news.
When driving out of Hemer towards Plettenberg Germany, I noticed this World War I and II memorial dedicated to the solders from Hemer who died in the wars. I usually planned my sketch opportunities in advance by researching the night before, but in this case, I just stumbled across this memorial as I was driving. I pulled off the main road and turned around to sketch.
My father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken would have been in and around the area of Stalag VI-A in Hemer Germany, helping liberate the prisoners from April 19, 1945 to June 1, 1945, a total of 43 days.
Dr. Nikolai Gubarew was a Soviet soldier captured and sent to Stalag VI-A as a 20 year old prisoner in 1942. He remained in the camp until it was liberated in April of 1945. In time he became an assistant to the StalagVI-A Captain Edmund Weller and thus he gained insight into the inner workings of the camp. The camp had a reputation among Soviets as the place Prisoners of War (POWs) went to die. Bread was the only hope to survive. For breakfast there might be a sip of liquid which was a replacement for coffee, lunch might consist of a thin soup with some turnips with unpeeled potatoes, sometimes with a bit of margarine. The best possible bread ration was 8 ounces which allowed for slow starvation. Soviet prisoners were always given the worst rations of food since the Germans considered then sub-human. Soviets would get 1 bowl of broth while other nationalizes got 2 bowls.