Notre Dame Paris France

Notre Dame Cathedral survived WWII largely intact, though it suffered minor damage from bullets during the 1944 liberation. The cathedral was protected with sandbags, which were placed around the portals. The portals are the large, sculpted entry ways to the cathedral which have hundreds of sculpted saints and martyrs. The cathedral’s stained glass was removed to prevent destruction. It narrowly escaped orders   Adolph Hitler’s order to destroy all monuments, landmarks and bridges. This order was disobeyed by Nazi commanding officer Dietrich von Choltitz.

Hitler did not visit Notre Dame during his 1940 trip. Hitler wanted the city destroyed and Dwight Eisenhower did not want Allied troops to get bogged down in a prolonged battle for Paris France. Memories of the Germans fighting for a long and arduous winter at Stalingrad left the impression that the Germans could make Paris a similar albatross around the neck of the allied push towards Berlin.

French resistance fighters and civilians forced Eisenhower’s hand since they blockaded streets and took back important public buildings. The square outside Notre-Dame Cathedral, usually empty early on a Saturday morning, filled with hundreds of policemen on August 19, 1944, all of them converging on the fortress-like Police headquarters. A flag unfurled atop the building: the blue, white and red French tricolor, banned by Paris’ German occupiers and last flown officially four years prior. The French police, on strike against the occupation, had returned, this time in revolt. Paris’ uprising against the Nazis had begun.

Resistance fighters erected around 600 street barricades—made of paving stones, trees, carts and sandbags—to stall and harass German troops. They seized government buildings, including the the city hall, where they pulled down a bust of Philippe Pétain, the French leader who’d collaborated with the Nazis, and replaced it with a portrait of Charles de Gaulle, the French General who insisted that France must be liberated at any cost.

Gunfire crackled all across the city as French freedom fighters hunted down Nazis and hoped to bring about the liberation of their city which had been under the boot of Nazi occupation since 1940. Two thousand police inside the Prefecture had used Molotov cocktails to thwart an attack by three German tanks. A fragile cease-fire, negotiated by the Swedish consul in Paris, saved the French police just as their pistol and rifle ammunition was about to run out.

If the revolt was unsuccessful the Nazi reprisal would be widespread and deadly. Adolf Hitler had ordered Dietrich von Choltitz, to “stamp out” any insurrection “without pity.” As Paris’ revolt grew.  Resistance fighters, were typically executed by firing squads. Mont Valérien fortress in Suresnes, near Paris, was the site for the execution of over 1,000 resistance fighters and hostages. It is estimated that around 60,000 French resistance fighters were executed, and 27,000 perished in concentration camps.

Hitler’s orders to Choltitz escalated. A Hitler order declared. “Paris must not fall into the hands of the enemy or, if it does, he must find there nothing but a field of ruins.” Choltitz refused to follow this order which would certainly result in his execution once the news got back to Hitler. But the war was almost over.

Dietrich von Choltitz survived World War II, surrendering as the German commander of Paris on August 25, 1944. He was held as a prisoner of war in Trent Park, London, and later in Mississippi, U.S., before being released in 1947. He died of a long-term illness on November 5, 1966, in Baden-Baden, Germany.

The cathedral was a focal point of the liberation, with a Magnificat sung on August 26, 1944, to celebrate the end of the Paris occupation. While it survived, the structure did suffer minor damage, including bullet holes in some stones. It is believed that 901 French Forces of the Interior members and 582 French civilians died in the fighting.

Reims France: Cathedral Notre Dame

While under German occupation, the cafes in Reims France were typically restricted, serving limited goods, and often frequented by German officers or, in secrecy, by members of the French Resistance.

Reims was liberated from German occupation by Allied ground forces on August 30, 1944, during the Northern France Campaign. Following its liberation, the city served as a key Allied logistics hub, and significantly, General Eisenhower’s Supreme Headquarters was located there, where Germany signed its unconditional surrender on May 7, 1945. My father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken would have likely entered the city between June 1, 1945, and September 15, 1945, on leave from his duties helping run Camp Cleveland which was a short distance south east of the city. He would have explored the city as an American GI.

American soldiers on leave in WWII Rheims frequented the city center for relaxation, with key spots including the iconic Notre-Dame de Reims cathedral, the Lycée Roosevelt (site where Germany signed the unconditional surrender in the war room), local cafes for coffee, and areas to enjoy Champagne, capitalizing on the city’s role as a major hub for the U.S. Army. There was an American officers’ club in Reims, France, known as Club du Chateau.

The Reims Notre Dame Cathedral was not destroyed during World War II; it remained largely untouched during that conflict, although it suffered severe damage and near-total destruction during World War I. The cathedral underwent a major restoration between 1919 and 1938, allowing it to survive the 1940s conflict relatively unscathed. This magnificent structure was the traditional coronation site of French kings, with more than 30 monarchs crowned here between the 11th and 19th centuries. It was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. Reims is also known as the “city of cathedrals” and is home not only to the Notre-Dame de Reims but the Basilica of Saint-Remi, the Church of Saint-Jacques, and the Protestant Church of Reims.

After World War I, much of Reims was rebuilt in the Art Deco style, giving the city a distinctive architectural identity. Walking through the city center, visitors will notice elegant facades, geometric designs, and decorative details that reflect the optimism of the 1920s. This blend of medieval landmarks and early 20th-century architecture makes Reims visually unique among French cities.

After the sketch was complete, I wandered the streets of the historic city searching for a nice restaurant to have my meal for the day. I found a nice little café on my walk back to the rental car. I ordered a chicken dinner which was delicious. The proprietor let me know that all the food was purchased fresh from local farmers markets. An older couple in the corner was celebrating a birthday. From behind the bar, the proprietor pulled out a bouquet of flowers and he offered it to the woman celebrating her birthday. I considered doing a sketch, but decided to just enjoy my meal and soak in the ambiance.
Walking back to the rental car I enjoyed the magnificent historic homes and there was yet another World War statue in a public park I passed through. History felt alive on every street I walked down.