Pre-Pandemic: Istanbul Apartment

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United States foreign service employees at the US Embassy get to stay in a really nice apartment complex in the heart of Istanbul Turkey. I did a drawing of the complex from a model in the lobby. The arching windows had an amazing view of the surrounding neighborhoods for miles. Right next door was a huge mall and several mom and pop restaurants which were packed at lunch time.

On June 11, 2020 Turkey announced opening the majority of its international air, land, and sea borders. The land border with Iran remains closed. The border with Syria remains closed. To date, tourist travelers do not need any specific health documentation to enter/exit Turkey unless they are arriving for medical treatment.

On August 5, 2020 Reuters reported that doctors in Turkey’s COVID-19 hots pots say hospitals are filling up with more cases than are reflected in the official nationwide count, which re surged above 1,000 this week.

The government, which lifted a partial lock down in June 2020 to restart the economy, sounded its own warning when the health minister described the 1,083 new COVID-19 cases as a “severe” rise after a four-day holiday weekend.

In response, authorities rolled out new inspections and enforcement measures, including fines for not wearing masks or maintaining social distancing. New cases had hovered just below 1,000 for more than three weeks, according to official figures.

All individuals in Turkey must wear cloth face coverings where people are collectively located, including supermarkets, marketplaces, hair salons, shopping malls, and workplaces as well as in all forms of transportation (including private vehicles) with at least two persons inside.

Pre-Pandemic: Boating off Kaş

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Boating off Kaş off the southern coast of Turkey. Kaş was founded by the Lycians. In the Hellenistic period and under the Roman Empire it served as the port of the neighboring city of Phellus. In 1923, because of the exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey after the Greco-Turkish War, the majority of the population, which was of Greek origin, was forced to leave the town for Greece. This exchange was based upon religious identity, and involved nearly all the indigenous Orthodox Christian citizens of Turkey. The most often given figure for Ottoman Greeks killed from 1914 to 1923 ranges from 300,000-900,000. Abandoned Greek houses can still be seen. In the early 1990s tourism started booming in Kaş.

Residents of Kaş have social isolated since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic in March, 2020. Hotels have not accepted guests since the beginning of the outbreak, hopefully postponing bookings until after the disease has subsided. Only health professionals, funeral staff, food suppliers and facilities workers are allowed to enter the town. The resort village remains empty of tourists.

The Turkish lira dropped to a historic low of 7.3677 against the dollar before recovering slightly. The lira is down about 19% versus the U.S. currency since the beginning of the year. Turkey had been hoping for an influx of foreign currency through exports and tourism revenues, but the COVID-19 pandemic has sharply undermined the tourism industry and disrupted global commerce.

Turkey is seeking to re-open its tourism industry, a key contributor to economic growth, for domestic tourists in June, 2020. Foreign visitors are then due to be invited back from some countries in a stepped approach that will include testing and social distancing at hotels and on beaches. Kaş, on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, is currently free of the COVID-19, but locals are afraid that visitors from virus hit cities could soon bring the disease to the area as Turkey gets set to re-open its tourism sector.

Pre-Pandemic: Square Outside Spice Bazaar

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Sketching in a public market makes me feel like I have a faint hint of what day to day life might be like ere I to live when I am traveling. This is a pre-pandemic sketch done inn a square outside the spice bazaar in Istanbul, Turkey. A mosque can be seen in the background of the sketch with it’s ornate architecture. I was more focused on the people however. They once gathered close to gossip and catch up in crowded groups. Today they would all be wearing masks of face a $129 fine.

On August 6, 2020 the CDC advised that the, “COVID-19 risk in Turkey is high. Travelers should avoid all nonessential international travel to Turkey. Some examples of essential travel may include traveling for humanitarian aid work, medical reasons, or family emergencies. Older adults, people of any age with certain underlying medical conditions, and others at increased risk for severe illness should consider postponing all travel, including essential travel, to Turkey.” The virus has decimated the Turkish economy.

COVID-19 research in Turkey is being stifled by the Ministry of Health which insisted on a mandatory application for permission for research on COVID-19. This unprecedented decision was against the Constitution and laws regulating research activities in Turkey. Most submitted projects have been approved by the Ministry of Health, but some projects, including a large, multi center observational study by the Turkish Thoracic Society, have been rejected without any clear explanation. Much like in America, politics Trump public health.

 

Pre-Pandemic: The Escape

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The Escape near Göcek, Turkey was a luxury villa rental. The ground floor room had a patio over looking the pool and hot tub. The escape is situated in the mountain village of Belenpinar just a 5 minute drive down to the Göcek marina.

The owners first explored the area in 1995 when they escaped and hired a motorcycle, touring the Turquoise Coast as well as the inner villages of the region. They found the village, bought a field, and added their dream villa. They now share their vision with sophisticated world travelers.

The villa was custom built as a designer  summer house in the Roman style, where East meets West and the Mediterranean meets the Aegean. It is now available exclusively for group rental. Because it was previously run as a hotel and is also the winter home of the owners, there are a few rooms which are locked off, the office, bar, personal bedrooms. Groups of up to 14 people must stay for a minimum of 5 days.

Göcek is believed to be right around where Icarus fell when he flew too close to the sun in the famous Greek myth.

Pre-Pandemic: Spice Market Istanbul Turkey

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The Spice Market in Istanbul, Turkey is certainly an exciting subject to sketch. When I sketched, it was ahrd to find a spot to stay out of the way of the pressing crowds of shoppers. It is one of the largest bazaars in the city. Located in the Eminönü quarter of the Fatih district, it is the most famous covered shopping complex after the Grand Bazaar. It was built in 1455, two years after the Ottomans seized Istanbul – then known as Constantinople – from the Byzantines. It’s Turkish name,  Kapalıçarşı means covered market.

The building itself is part of the complex of the New Mosque. The revenues obtained from the rented shops inside the bazaar building were used for the up keeping of the mosque . Spice Bazaar has a total of 85 shops selling spices, Turkish delight and other sweets, jewellery, souvenirs, and dried fruits and nuts. In recent years shops of other types are gradually replacing the sellers of spices.

The market is usually visited by 150,000 people every day – and by 42 million people last year – while traders shout out deals in dozens of languages to lure tourists into their stores.

After Turkey announced its first confirmed case in mid-March, 2020 health scans were carried out on all the market’s traders. Seven were confirmed to have COVID-19. They could have been infected by the many tourists in the packed confines of the market.

The Spice Market was closed on March 23, 2020 as part of measures to stem the spread of the COVID-19, which has killed over 4,300 people in Turkey. The market employs more than 30,000 people.

On May 28, 2020 municipal workers in full protective gear on disinfected the Spice Bazaar against COVID-19 ahead of its reopening. The team used a specific disinfectant that has no harm to people’s and animals’ health, the Fatih Municipality said at a statement. The bazaar opened its doors on June 1, 2020 as part of normalization from COVID-19 restrictions in the country. The market had been closed for two months, the longest closure in its 550 year history.

Shoppers have their temperatures checked for fevers upon entry, and the number of people allowed in at one time will be restricted. Traders are worried that the bazaar is unlikely to see many tourists for some time. Namık, a trader said, “We are at a low ebb. How will we pay the rent?” He added. “My shop remains open, but there are no customers. There’s no business.”

 

Pre-Pandemic: Göcek Market

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Sunday is market day in Göcek, Turkey. Stopping at a local outdoor market is a good way to see how the locals buy good for the week.At the end of the market where I was sketching people also gathered for outdoor dining. Gozlemeci are Turkish pancakes and they were being flipped off the grill in quick succession. Wandering the market it was tempting to get some exotic fruits and vegetables but the stay in Göcek was short lived. While doing this sketch a little girl took an interest in my sketch. We didn’t speak the same language but I gave her a pencil and paper so she could sketch as well. She sketched beside me for the duration.

The wearing of masks is obligatory throughout Turkey in crowded places and specifically in markets and supermarkets, hairdressers and barber shops. The wearing of masks is also compulsory on all public transport, including Metro, buses, taxis and ferries, and in some areas, masks must be worn when traveling in private vehicles with more than one person. Those who do not abide by this rule may be issued with a fine of 900 TL (about $129).

As part of its efforts to limit the spread of COVID-19, the Turkish government has imposed curfews. These have been time-limited, or aimed at particular age groups. These can be imposed at short notice and you should stay in touch with local developments.

Turkish authorities have confirmed that any foreign nationals who overstay their visa, due to COVID-19, will not face any fines or penalties, provided they depart Turkey within 1 month of flights resuming to their country of citizenship.

Pre-Pandemic: Kaş

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Kaş is a seaside tourist town on the Mediterranean coast in southwestern Turkey. The town center has whitewashed houses and buildings covered in gorgeous bougainvillea. Touristy knick knack shops line the streets. At the end of this very steep and narrow Roman Era pedestrian street is the Lion’s Tomb. The Tomb is a 4th century BC Lycian sarcophagus in a tiny shaded square northeast of the harbor.

The Lion’s Tomb is an elevated three-part sarcophagus. The sarcophagus is classic Lycian, with a pointed arch lid  which is reminiscent of an up-turned boat. Two lions heads project from each side of the lid, hence the tomb’s name. The Lion’s tomb is open at all times with no entry fee, and is nicely lit at night.

After three months of Covid-19 lock down, the Turkish government is allowing domestic and international flights and letting bathhouses, hotels and historic sites to reopen for tourists. Hotel reservations have started to pick up since the second half of June, 2020.

Turkish Airlines will fly to the US with three flights per week to Chicago (starting June 19), Washington DC (starting June 19), Los Angeles (starting June 24), and Miami (starting June 22). Passengers will be required to get an HES code in order to fly internationally, clearing them for takeoff by proving they are not infected with COVID-19 or under quarantine. Additionally, Turkish Airlines has announced more direct flights between Europe and the Anatolia region, where Kaş is located, bypassing the Istanbul hub.

In the new normal, those who think they can overcome COVID-19 only by making a couple of small adjustments will disappear. Americans are unlikely to be allowed as tourism re-opens since they seem incapable of making any adjustments. The aim is to revise the list of acceptable countries every two weeks based on developments.

Turkey’s easing of COVID-19 measures started as early as on May 11, 2020 when the government reopened shopping malls, albeit with new physical distancing and hygiene rules. This was followed by more steps on June 1, 2020 including the reopening of cafes, restaurants and similar places, as well as parks, beaches and recreation. The government also resumed international flights on June 11, 2020 and announced that all tourism facilities, theaters and concert halls would reopen on July 1, 2020. Turkey has seen a new surge in the number of cases since the re-opening with over 1000 new cases a day reported.

Hey, should you visit and need a tomb, I know of one at the top of a slippery and steep hill. It comes with lion’s heads.

Pre-Pandemic: Letoon Turkey

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Letoon Turkey, was a sanctuary of Leto near the ancient city Xanthos in Lycia. It was one of the most important religious centers in the region. Leto was one of the female Titans, a bride of Zeus, and the mother of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis. She was the goddess of motherhood and, with her children, a protectress of the young. Her name and iconography suggest she was also a goddess of modesty and womanly demure.

The archaeological finds at the site, date back to the late sixth century BC. The foundations of the Hellenistic temple dedicated to Leto, and her children, Artemis and Apollo, have been excavated under the direction of H. Metzger from 1962. Archeologists have excavated much of the ruins; discoveries include the Letoon trilingual, bearing inscriptions in Greek, Lycian and Aramaic, which has provided crucial keys in the deciphering of the Lycian language; it is conserved in the Fethiye Museum.

The sun was beginning to set as I sketched among the ruins. I remember a cat wandering among the ancient collapsed pillars and an incredible army of tadpoles in a large puddle at the base of the temple. I could hear the evening prayers as they re broadcast from  the high minaret in the distance. Muslims across the country would stop what they were doing when this call to prayer echoed through he villages.

Thousands Gathered at Hagia Sophia

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Thousands gathered at Hagia Sophia for the first Friday Prayers when the former museum was opened as a Mosque in Istanbul, Turkey. Many wore masks and others chin straps in the blazing heat. Thousands of police were scattered among the shoulder to shoulder crowd to maintain the peace. People crowded up against police barricades hoping to get close to the mosque.

The building was a Christian Byzantine cathedral for 900 years before being seized by Ottoman conquerors and serving as a mosque until 1934. Inside are historic Christian mosaics on the walls and domed ceilings. In 1934 the building became a museum and remained so until just last month when a Turkish court annulled Hagia Sophia’s status as a museum. Turkish president Tayyip Erdogan immediately turned it back into a mosque. He was front and center at the July 24, 2020 first prayers. Erdogan, in power for 17 years, may have converted the museum into a Mosque to placate his conservative base whose support has eroding due to economic despair and the COVID-19 pandemic.

Inside, large scaffolding was erected in the middle of the structure and drapery hid the Christian mosaics. The conversion triggered fierce criticism from Christian church leaders, who said that exclusively Muslim worship risked deepening religious divisions. Turkey says the site will remain open for visitors and its Christian artworks will be protected.

I was shocked at how close people packed together to worship. Two hours before prayers started, areas outside the building were filled to capacity and the authorities had to deny entry over concerns about the spread of COVID-19.

Turkey saw its highest spike in new cases on April 11, 2020. To date the country has had 5,813 COVID-19 related deaths.  Since the opening of Hagia Sophia as a mosque, Covid-19 has spread fast in major Turkish cities according to Health Ministry data. Over the past few weeks, health authorities have been warning that citizens are acting as if the threat has disappeared, and daily new cases surpassed 1,000 for the first time in about a month on Tuesday August 4, 2020.

The government is discussing restrictions on movement or limiting social interaction in certain districts. Plans are not finalized. Police are conducting mass inspections looking to catch violations of rules put in place to stem the COVID-19 outbreak. Anyone found not wearing protective masks and maintaining a social distance of at least 1.5 meters (5 feet) were warned and fined. The strict measures are a consequence of concerns over a new surge in cases while some people are ditching masks and overcrowded has become common. An army of 250,000 inspectors found people conveniently tucking masks into their handbags or pockets, only to rush to wear them when seeing uniforms. Some claimed they would not be recognized while wearing a mask which is ironic since so many Muslim women cover their faces with a niqāb. A few women did worship at the opening prayers at Hagia Sophia from a hallway.

Turkey was one of the first countries to suffer in the first months of the pandemic and they do not want to experience a second wave. The ministry warned it would not accept any violations from anyone who didn’t wear a mask and maintain social distancing at gatherings such as weddings or circumcision ceremonies. Those who refused would face fines and temporary closures.

Pre-Pandemic: Hotel Bella

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Hotel Bella in Selçuk, Turkey is right down the street from The Grand Byzantine Fortress, which can be seen in this sketch. This is a view from the room of the street below. Storks had set up a nest on a pole right outside the window and I couldn’t resist sketching them as they organized the sticks on the perimeter of the nest.

The Grand Byzantine Fortress or Ayasuluk Castle, lies on a hill in the town of Selçuk, in the province of Izmir in Turkey. It is situated just a mile from the site of the ancient Greek city of Ephesus. Ephesus was initially a harbor city but the continually silting up of its harbor eventually made it an inland site situated about 3 miles from the sea at present. The fortress was built using stones from disused Greek and Roman buildings. Entry to the citadel from the south was through the Gate of Persecution, which first led into the Basilica.

Over the centuries, people from the harbor site gradually migrated towards the citadel on the hill as the harbor continued to silt up and residents battled malaria. By the end of the Byzantine period the harbor was abandoned, and Ephesus was centered around the fortress.

Inside the fortress ruins there are the remains of a small ruined mosque, a part of a former church turned into a cistern, a couple of Ottoman cisterns and ground plans of a couple of houses.

Turkey is one of the few countries that still allows American tourists to visit. Americans have become pariahs on the wold stage for their inability to control the COVID-19 virus pandemic.

Passengers arriving in Turkey will be required to complete an information form and will be checked for symptoms. Anyone suspected of having COVID-19 will be transported to a hospital for examination. If an individual on a particular aircraft/vehicle/vessel is found to have COVID-19, the information forms completed upon arrival will be used to identify others who have been in contact with them; those individuals will then also be subject to 14-day isolation/quarantine.

U.S. Citizens flying from the United States may only enter via CDC-approved airports and should follow COVID-19 restrictions in place at their final destination. Air travelers are advised to include their travel document (Passport/I-551) information in their reservations to help ensure they do not encounter issues when boarding flights. A list of approved airports along with arrival information for international travelers entering the United States is available here. U.S. citizens planning travel into and out of Turkey with stops in the European Union (EU) should check specific country restrictions on the EU website.