Thousands Gathered at Hagia Sophia

Thousands gathered at Hagia Sophia for the first Friday Prayers when the former museum was opened as a Mosque in Istanbul, Turkey. Many wore masks and others chin straps in the blazing heat. Thousands of police were scattered among the shoulder to shoulder crowd to maintain the peace. People crowded up against police barricades hoping to get close to the mosque.

The building was a Christian Byzantine cathedral for 900 years before being seized by Ottoman conquerors and serving as a mosque until 1934. Inside are historic Christian mosaics on the walls and domed ceilings. In 1934 the building became a museum and remained so until just last month when a Turkish court annulled Hagia Sophia’s status as a museum. Turkish president Tayyip Erdogan immediately turned it back into a mosque. He was front and center at the July 24, 2020 first prayers. Erdogan, in power for 17 years, may have converted the museum into a Mosque to placate his conservative base whose support has eroding due to economic despair and the COVID-19 pandemic.

Inside, large scaffolding was erected in the middle of the structure and drapery hid the Christian mosaics. The conversion triggered fierce criticism from Christian church leaders, who said that exclusively Muslim worship risked deepening religious divisions. Turkey says the site will remain open for visitors and its Christian artworks will be protected.

I was shocked at how close people packed together to worship. Two hours before prayers started, areas outside the building were filled to capacity and the authorities had to deny entry over concerns about the spread of COVID-19.

Turkey saw its highest spike in new cases on April 11, 2020. To date the country has had 5,813 COVID-19 related deaths.  Since the opening of Hagia Sophia as a mosque, Covid-19 has spread fast in major Turkish cities according to Health Ministry data. Over the past few weeks, health authorities have been warning that citizens are acting as if the threat has disappeared, and daily new cases surpassed 1,000 for the first time in about a month on Tuesday August 4, 2020.

The government is discussing restrictions on movement or limiting social interaction in certain districts. Plans are not finalized. Police are conducting mass inspections looking to catch violations of rules put in place to stem the COVID-19 outbreak. Anyone found not wearing protective masks and maintaining a social distance of at least 1.5 meters (5 feet) were warned and fined. The strict measures are a consequence of concerns over a new surge in cases while some people are ditching masks and overcrowded has become common. An army of 250,000 inspectors found people conveniently tucking masks into their handbags or pockets, only to rush to wear them when seeing uniforms. Some claimed they would not be recognized while wearing a mask which is ironic since so many Muslim women cover their faces with a niqāb. A few women did worship at the opening prayers at Hagia Sophia from a hallway.

Turkey was one of the first countries to suffer in the first months of the pandemic and they do not want to experience a second wave. The ministry warned it would not accept any violations from anyone who didn’t wear a mask and maintain social distancing at gatherings such as weddings or circumcision ceremonies. Those who refused would face fines and temporary closures.

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia  was the first Christian Cathedral build by the Roman Empire in the Byzantine era. It has served as a Greek Orthodox cathedral, a Roman Catholic cathedral, and an Ottoman mosque over the course of its long history. It was once called the Church of Hagia Sophia and later, in 1943, Great Mosque of Ayasofya. In 1934 a presidential decree converted the building into a museum.  For 85 years it was a museum. That court ruling that granted the museum status was annulled on July 10, 2020 and Turkish president Recep Tayyip Erdogan has ordered the conversion of the city’s historic Hagia Sophia back into a mosque.

Hagia Sophia became UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985. UNESCO released a statement expressing that it “deeply regrets the decision of the Turkish authorities, made without prior discussion, and calls for the universal value of World Heritage to be preserved.” Ernesto Ottone, UNESCO’s Assistant Director-General for Culture, said in the statement, “It is important to avoid any implementing measure, without prior discussion with UNESCO, that would affect physical access to the site, the structure of the buildings, the site’s moveable property, or the site’s management.”

The site will now be managed by the country’s Presidency of Religious Affairs, rather than the Ministry of Culture, CNN reported. “Since its status as a museum is changed, we are canceling the entrance fees,” said Erdogan in a speech on July 10, 2020 according to the Anadolu news agency. “Like all our mosques, its doors will be open to everyone — Muslim or non-Muslim. As the world’s common heritage, Hagia Sophia with its new status will keep on embracing everyone in a more sincere way.”

What will happen to the artifacts and art within it? Artifacts include, includes medieval mosaics depicting the Holy Family and images of Christian imperial emperors, which Muslims who make use of the building as a mosque are expected to cover up using curtains or lasers. It is not clear how the lasers would work. The Christian icons would be uncovered and be open to all visitors at other times.

Hagia Sophia will officially begin regular worship services beginning July 24, according to CNN.

My sketch done in 2015 is of the Tulip Festival that takes place in front of Hagia Sophia. The festival took place this year in April. In April, it was confirmed that COVID-19 had spread all over Turkey. On April 14, 2020, the head of the Turkish Ministry of Health, Fahrettin Koca announced that the spread of the virus in Turkey has reached its peak in the fourth week.

Hagia Sofya in Istanbul Turkey.

Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Mh., Ayasofya Meydanı, Fatih/İstanbul, Turkey, (from the Greek: Ἁγία Σοφία, “Holy Wisdom”; Turkish: Ayasofya) is a former Christian patriarchal basilica (church), later an imperial mosque, and now a museum (Ayasofya Müzesi) in Istanbul, Turkey. Built in 537 it served as an Orthodox cathedral and seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople, except between 1204 and 1261, when it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral under the Latin Empire. In 1453, Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Turks under Sultan Mehmed II,
who ordered this main church of Orthodox Christianity converted into a
mosque. By that point, the church had fallen into a state of disrepair. It remained a mosque until 1931. It was then secularized and opened as a museum in 1935. Although a museum the minarets still broadcast the daily Muslim prayers.

As I worked on this sketch, Terry went inside to explore the museum. A young Turkish girl let me know she was also an artist. We did our best to communicate using the universal language of sketching. She showed me her quick sketches, and I showed her mine. I probably learned more about her from that quick exchange of images than if we had chatted for hours. A picture is worth a thousand words.

The large public square bustled with activity. Hagia Sophia is one of the top tourist attractions in Istanbul. Women covered head to toe in black burkas were among the tourists. It seemed a contradiction to see them fingering their iPhones.