Reims France: Museum of the Surrender

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My second stop on the drive back to Paris was Reims France. Rheims was the city where Germany unconditionally surrendered on May 7, 1945, at 2:41am. However, the Soviets had not yet officially approved the text of the Instrument of Surrender signed in Reims. The Soviets insisted that the proper signing ceremony must not take place in France, but right in the fallen Reich’s heart, in Berlin. They also insisted on certain changes in the text of the Instrument of Surrender, insisting it state unambiguously that all German troops were required to give up their arms and hand themselves over to the Allies. Therefor on May 8, 1945, there was another, grander, more formal ceremony in Berlin Germany.

There were no immediate celebrations. The ceasefire was set for 11.01pm on 8 May, and the news correspondents present at the Rheims signing were sworn not to report the surrender until further notice. A few hours later, however, German radio did – and the news was out.

My Father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was serving occupation duty in the area of Hemer where Stalag VI-A was located as well as Iserlohn and Plettenburg Germany when Germany surrendered. He held on to the Stars and Strips newspaper announcing the surrender for the rest of his life. I now have that very yellow and fragile newspaper with the full-page headline NAZIS QUIT! Arthur must have been ecstatic that the European war was over. The 75th Infantry marching band celebrated by marching through the streets of Plettenberg Germany playing patriotic music.

Although Arthur Thorspecken wasn’t at the signing on May 8, 1945, he was reassigned to Camp Cleveland just 11 miles south east of Reims on June 1, 1945. Leaves to Rheims and Paris were common for the 75th Infantry soldiers who ran Camp Cleveland. I have no doubt that Arthur would have taken a leave to Rheims and come to the this site where the war in Germany had ended.

The newspaper announced that, German officers formally surrendered the German forces at a meeting in the big red schoolhouse which was General Eisenhauer’s headquarters. Grand Admiral Doenitz, successor to Adolph Hitler, ordered the surrender and the German High Command declared it effective. The signing of the surrender declaration took place in secret in the “map room” located in the technical college (now called Lycée Roosevelt)

The red schoolhouse in Rheims is now a museum memorializing the end of World War II. The museum has archives, uniforms, and artifacts which bring the period of May 1945 to life. Unfortunately, when I was there, the museum was under renovation. It is slated to re-open in March of 2026.

The text serving as the “Instrument of Surrender” had already been written by the Allies in mid-1944, after the D-Day Landings in Normandy France. Reworked sections of the text were also the subject of the Yalta Conference in early 1945. The main points were that the surrender had to be unconditional and must be signed by the German Military High Command. When Germany’s surrendered in WW1, only the civilian government signed. This later paved the way for the “Dolchstoß”, or ‘stab-in-the-back’, legend that militarily Germany had not actually been defeated on the battlefields, but that it was “betrayed” – by republicans, social democrats, and Jews. This propaganda fueled the hatred that allowed Hitler to be voted into office and begin a massive build up of armed forces.

Adolph Hitler’s suicide, in the Fuhrer bunker in Berlin on 30 April 1945, opened a real chance for surrender to come quickly. Yet it came in stages, drawn out over the course of more than a week, partly because of the chaos the German military was experiencing.

Today the museum looks quite nondescript, a simple red-brick complex. Only the four flagpoles flying the British, United States, French and Soviet flags hint at its significance.

Plettenberg Germany, Böhler Cemetery

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Cross shaped headstones for German soldiers were right behind me as I sketched the Böhler Church in Plettenberg Germany. It seems any time I sketch in a cemetery there is a small army of lawn mowers buzzing between the headstones or it is raining. The lawn care guy mowing near me got closer and closer. I shouted out, “Do you need me to move!” in German. He shouted back “Nein!” After he was done, he looked over my shoulder, probably to see how long I had drawn the grass. After I sketched the church, I considered leaving since it was rather cold, but I could not resist and I turned around and sketched the headstones.

In Plettenberg, the first Allied artillery shell landed just beyond the Böhler Cemetery. Between 10 and 11 a.m. that Friday, the American troops advanced again in skirmish formation, coming down Grafweg, into the Plettenberg town center.

Manfred Rettig recounted: “…My father, Walter Rettig, owned the Wilhelm Schade factory canteen during the war. In 1945, my father had to provide the mess hall for a Wehrmacht unit. Some soldiers from this unit had entrenched themselves above the former collection pond at the Schade company. There was a tank barrier in the valley. As far as I know, these soldiers were killed by the Americans. We children, (about 10 years old) could still see the blood in the ditch for a long time afterward. A few days after the war ended, a friend of mine was killed by a rifle grenade that was found…”

There are over 50 soldiers’ graves in the Böhler cemetery, including 9 graves of Hitler Youth who died during clean-up work in Dortmund Germany. According to a census from January 1951, there are 159 war graves in Plettenberg; a total of 40 foreigners (30 Russians, 2 Poles, 8 Italians) who were prisoners of war, or forced laborers in Plettenberg were buried here; during World War II, 111 German soldiers were buried in Plettenberg. The total number of victims of the Second World War can only be estimated. Estimates range up to 80 million war dead.

After the war in 1949, demolition experts were clearing ammunition near Plettenberg, when an anti aircraft shell exploded. Police Sargent Bruno, was killed and a bomb disposal expert was seriously injured. A 17 hear old farm hand who was showing them the duds, miraculously was not injured. The bomb disposal expert was quickly rushed to the hospital, and doctors tried to keep him alive.

On April 15, 1945, the 75th Infantry Division located possible camp sites for Displaced Persons, and checked road and bridge conditions in the area south of Dortmund Germany. On April 22, 1945 the 75th was given the task of placing road guides on the approach to Plettenberg. The troops then assembled in Plettenberg at 11:30am. On April 23, 1945 the first platoon including my father 1st lieutenant Arthur Thorsecken’s C-Company, set up an Observation Post (OP) on the main North West road into Plettenberg. An OP is a position used by soldiers to monitor enemy movements, warn of approach, or direct fire. On the 24th they were relived of OP duty and assigned the mission of reconnoitering in the area South of Plettenberg, Germany in the Division area to look for road blocks, road and bridge conditions, and ammunition dumps. On April 26, 1945, the 3rd and 1st platoons continued reconnaissance of area South of Plettenberg, Germany in the Division area. The 2nd platoon set up OP at the Division Headquarters in Plettenberg, Germany. The 1st platoon was alerted. On April 27th to 30th, the Division set up Ops at the Plettenberg Hospital and Radio Station.

After the German surrender on May 8, 1945, the 75th Division was tasked with securing the Westphalia region, including Iserlohn and Plettenberg. The division’s duties included managing displaced persons, securing the area, and caring for Allied prisoners of war.

Russian Memorial Hocklingerweg Hemer, Germany

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In the final months of World War II, the area around Islerohn Germany saw the surrender of German forces to the American troops. My father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken with his C-Company in the 75th Infantry Division, moved into Hemer to help liberate Stalag VI-A, one of Germany’s largest POW camps.

The Americans of the 75th Infantry Division distributed U.S. Military rations to the starving prisoners. Approximately 22,000 men were found at the camp with 9000 of those in the camp “hospital”. Patients suffered from Tuberculosis, Dysentery, Malnutrition, and Typhus fever. Inmates were from the Soviet Union, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Poland, Italy, Yugoslavia, Romania, Great Britain, Canada and America. American War photographer Joseph D. Karr was on the scene documenting the struggle to keep men alive. Despite being offered food rations, many men were just too far gone. Over 100 men (mostly Soviets) kept dying every day. Soviets were given half or less of the rations that other nationalities were given and over the week before liberation there was no food distributed in the camp since the cooks and guards had retreated East away from the advancing American troops.

Two cemeteries were established for the mass graves for all the men who were dying. The exact number of men who died is hard to calculate. Some researchers think 24,000 men lie in the two cemeteries. Others think that number is too high, while others think that number may be far higher, based on the rising numbers of inmates who died at the end of the war. The goal of commemorating is to never forget. Future generations need to know what man is willing to do in the name of an ideology and how quickly a society is willing to throw away basic moral principles.

Early in the war, the first men who died were buried in a forest near the Stalag. The dead were buried in simple wooden coffins. Most of these men were French (166) and Polish (42). By 1945 there were 335 graves. War graves agreements after the war, insisted that the bodies be returned to home countries. The remaining graves were then moved to the two cemeteries dedicated to the Stalag dead in Hemer.

The numbers of Soviet dead kept growing exponentially. They had been through the hell of war, capture, forced stays in the front-line Stalags followed by excruciatingly long cold train rides into the Reich where they were immediately put into forced labor details. Additional land had to be acquired from a Protestant parish for the hundreds of men who were dying each week. The bodies were carried on a horse drawn carriage on the shortest route up the hills and winding roads to the cemetery. Long excavated trenches had been dug, and the bodies were unceremoniously thrown into the pit. People walking down the street, or passing by train could see the grisly scene. There was no secrecy to the mass murder taking place.

By the end of 1943 all the rows had been filled with bodies. The capacity of the cemetery was exhausted. More than 3,500 Soviet prisoners were buried in 16 mass graves in about 15 months. Since men were buried with bodies stacked on top of one another, about 3 men deep, it became impossible to figure out who was buried where. At first there were distinct rows with metal plates to delineate the rows, but over time the landscape was flattened and a featureless lawn with a few birch trees remains. The metal plates had been discarded or lost.

A small concrete monument had been built by Soviet inmates after the liberation of the camp, but it was replaced by a memorial stone designed by Menden Germany sculptor, Walter Voss. It was dedicated on the Sunday of the Dead, in 1967. The stone says: Rest. Soviet Citizens who died in the years 1941-1945 far from home. The number of deceased, at 3000, was the credible number at the time when the stone was carved. As of 2021, 3,513 of the Soviet prisoners could be named. The exact number may never be known.

April 23, 1945: Hemer Germany, Stalag VI-A

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On April 23, 1945, the 290th Infantry Division relieved the 5th Infantry Division, assuming the duties and responsibilities of occupying, administering and policing the large area in and around Iserlohn Germany. The care, feeding and expeditious evacuation of 90,000 Displaced Persons, coming from every one of the countries Germany had conquered, presented difficult problem. The 75th Infantry had limited personnel and transportation facilities.

Hemer Germany was captured on April 14, 1945. While the German commander of the 512th Heavy Panzerjager Battalion was negotiating a surrender, the American Major Thomas Daily learned about the deteriorating conditions in Hemer’s Stalag VI-A, just to the east of Islerohn. He learned that Russian prisoners had escaped and were looting the city. Most of the camp guards had already been disarmed. Daily quickly realized that the starving prisoners could cause chaos. The prisoners had cut their way through the barbed wire fence and were slipping out in small groups. An order was issued to shoot any armed civilians to restore order. American tanks were deployed to surround the POW camp. The prisoners who escaped were forcibly returned to the camp.

The living conditions I the camp were horrific. There were 9000 patients in the camp “hospital”. Typhoid, pneumonia, fever,  tuberculosis and dysentery raged uncontrolled through the camp.  The clothes of the prisoners were only rags. Body lice was everywhere. The sanitary facilities were dirty and completely inadequate. Even after being liberated, there was an average of 100 to 150 deaths a day. Hundreds of bodies lay on the ground. They needed to be loaded onto army trucks and buried in a mass grave site.

The four days before the Americans arrived, there had been noting to eat in the camp at all. Before that, the prisoners had only been given a thin barley soup, with one bowl a day for each Russian and two bowls a day for the other nationalities along with a single loaf of bread between 10 men. Guards had retreated, knowing hat the Americas were coming. All the Russians suffered from malnutrition. The 99 American prisoners had only recently been captured and they were in comparatively good condition.
At 7p.m. an American Kitchen was set up and all available food was distributed. At first warning shots had to be fired with hand guns and light tank guns over the heads of the prisoners to dissolve a riot among the prisoners. None of the Americans knew how to speak Russian. An armored loudspeaker vehicle was found and it was used to calm the excited crowd with translated announcements.

Prior to the war, Hemer had petitioned to become a military location. The mayor felt that this would boost the city’s economy. The city took the financial risk to build modern brick military barracks. The hope was that the construction would catch the eye of the Nazi Party. War broke out before work was finished on the buildings. With Poland invaded, the unfinished barracks immediately became a Prisoner of War Camp. Hemer became the first prisoner of war camp near Dortmund Germany. Large tents had to be brought in since the buildings were still uninhabitable. At first prisoners had to sleep on the bare concrete floor until the rooms could be equipped with 3 tiered crude bunk beds. Barbed write was quickly unrolled around the complex.

Train loads of prisoners kept arriving which lead to constant overcrowding with insufficient sanitation. Vermin spread disease. Once the buildings were completed, the prisoners in the brick buildings, were better off than other Stalag’s which were quickly constructed with Forced Labor out of wood, mud and hate. But with malnutrition, all prisoners were equal.

POWs were used as forced labor. Those who could not work would be returned to the Stalag where they would languish and die. Treatment by the guards was brutal, hitting prisoners with shovels and sticks. In one instance, a sickly prisoners tried to grab a second serving of soup and run away. A guard hit the prisoner in the head with a thick club, which he nicknamed “Bull Penis”, which he kept ready for just such an occasion. The Russian fell to the ground, blood flowed from his mouth, nose and ears. Military camp personnel did not shy away from torment and isolated murders of the prisoners.

April 19, 1945: Iserlohn Germany

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On April 19, 1945, my father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken and his C-Company of the 75th Infantry Division were relieved by elements of the 313th Infantry Division. The 75th was then trucked to several locations in the Ruhr Valley for reassembly, and then sent to Iserlohn Germany. The town east of Iserlohn was Hemer which was the site of Stalag VIA, a large POW Camp. Rather than fighting a battle after the successful capture of the Industrial Ruhr Pocket, the 75th was now tasked with occupation duty.

On the evening of 13 April 1945, the United States Army began bombing the city of Iserlohn Germany. The bombing continued for three days. The bombardment lasted nearly three days but caused only minor damage.

The events of WWII are indelibly etched in the minds of the residents of Iserlohn who lived through the years of the Nazi inhuman racial ideology. The Nazi drive for conquest and annihilation cost countless lives. The exact number of Iserlohn residents who lost their lives due to Nazi doctrine are unknown. Municipal statistics report 776 fallen soldiers and 137 civilians killed by air raids and artillery fire. These numbers do not account for those who died in captivity, nor the number of Jewish residents who were deported from Iserlohn and murdered in concentration camps.

A synagogue was built in Iserlohn in 1829. It was destroyed on the Night of Broken Glass November 9, 1938. The building had to be demolished. The first Jewish deportation began on October 28, 1938. In 1941 the Jewish community that remained was moved to Kluse 18 and deported from there to to the industrial extermination camps of Auschwitz and Theresienstadt Germany.

Because of its metal industry, Iserlohn produced war-relevant products, including brass components, specialized light metal castings for ammunition, and hardware for Stick hand grenades. With every industrial building converted for armaments production. The town was a prime target for Allied bombing.

Iserlohn was therefore a prime target of Allied Air Strikes. The need to take protective measures for the population became apparent by 1943. Construction of the air-raid shelter tunnel under the Supreme City Church began at the end of 1943. This church is an emblem of the city of Iserlohn and also part of its coat of arms. The Supreme City Church in Iserlohn, which dates back to roughly 1350, survived the destruction of World War II.

With an originally planned length of 500 to 550 meters, the air raid shelter was supposed to be able to accommodate up to 6,600 people. By the end of the war, the tunnel had only reached a length of around 200 meters offering refuge for 2,000 residents.
Iserlohn was home to 5 military barracks and other military installations. The old style half-timbered homes were particularly vulnerable to Allied incendiary bombings. The town had 46,000 residents in 1943.

Prisoners of war from Stalag VI-A in Hemer Germany were used for construction. These same workers were not allowed to enter the tunnel during the Allied air raid attacks. Jews were also prohibited from entering the shelter. The Forced Laborers, many of them Russian and Polish, were literally worked to death. The forced laborers were expected to drill and chisel into the rock for 5 meters a week. Drilling operations had to stop due to the appearance of fissures and cracks in the clay. The loose clay and slate offered  unreliable protection against bombings. With only room for one third of the residents, fights broke out for the right to enter the tunnels, resulting in overcrowding.

At midday on April 16, 1945, in Iserlohn, a Jagdtiger Tank Battalion led by Wehrmacht commander Albert Ernst, assembled for its final roll call before surrender to the U.S. 99th Infantry Division. American Major Boyd McCune lead the negotiations, which were eased by the fact that Ernst spoke English   . The Germans lay all their weapons on the pavement of the Iserlohn city market square as the Americans watched.

The air raid shelter construction ended on April 16, 1945 when American forces occupied the city.