While under German occupation, the cafes in Reims France were typically restricted, serving limited goods, and often frequented by German officers or, in secrecy, by members of the French Resistance.
Reims was liberated from German occupation by Allied ground forces on August 30, 1944, during the Northern France Campaign. Following its liberation, the city served as a key Allied logistics hub, and significantly, General Eisenhower’s Supreme Headquarters was located there, where Germany signed its unconditional surrender on May 7, 1945. My father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken would have likely entered the city between June 1, 1945, and September 15, 1945, on leave from his duties helping run Camp Cleveland which was a short distance south east of the city. He would have explored the city as an American GI.
American soldiers on leave in WWII Rheims frequented the city center for relaxation, with key spots including the iconic Notre-Dame de Reims cathedral, the Lycée Roosevelt (site where Germany signed the unconditional surrender in the war room), local cafes for coffee, and areas to enjoy Champagne, capitalizing on the city’s role as a major hub for the U.S. Army. There was an American officers’ club in Reims, France, known as Club du Chateau.
The Reims Notre Dame Cathedral was not destroyed during World War II; it remained largely untouched during that conflict, although it suffered severe damage and near-total destruction during World War I. The cathedral underwent a major restoration between 1919 and 1938, allowing it to survive the 1940s conflict relatively unscathed. This magnificent structure was the traditional coronation site of French kings, with more than 30 monarchs crowned here between the 11th and 19th centuries. It was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. Reims is also known as the “city of cathedrals” and is home not only to the Notre-Dame de Reims but the Basilica of Saint-Remi, the Church of Saint-Jacques, and the Protestant Church of Reims.
After World War I, much of Reims was rebuilt in the Art Deco style, giving the city a distinctive architectural identity. Walking through the city center, visitors will notice elegant facades, geometric designs, and decorative details that reflect the optimism of the 1920s. This blend of medieval landmarks and early 20th-century architecture makes Reims visually unique among French cities.
After the sketch was complete, I wandered the streets of the historic city searching for a nice restaurant to have my meal for the day. I found a nice little café on my walk back to the rental car. I ordered a chicken dinner which was delicious. The proprietor let me know that all the food was purchased fresh from local farmers markets. An older couple in the corner was celebrating a birthday. From behind the bar, the proprietor pulled out a bouquet of flowers and he offered it to the woman celebrating her birthday. I considered doing a sketch, but decided to just enjoy my meal and soak in the ambiance.
Walking back to the rental car I enjoyed the magnificent historic homes and there was yet another World War statue in a public park I passed through. History felt alive on every street I walked down.