March 1945: Kaldenkirchen Germany

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Gasthause Luthemuhle was the Inn I stayed in as I explored and sketched Kaldenkirchen Germany. It was a really nice place right on a lake and there were two horses who grazed right outside my window as the sun set. It was a quiet peaceful retreat which is the polar opposite of the 80 year old war zone I was trying to find evidence of.

The quick sketch is of the dining room. The Inn was far from the town of Kaldenkirchen, so I at here several times.

There was little resistance when 8th Armored Division first took Kaldenkirchen on March 1, 1945. My father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken and the men of C-Company of the 75th Infantry Division were in this area from March 8th to March 11, 1945 clearing isolated pockets of German resistance. They did the same in Venlo Netherlands and Roermund Netherlands which are both close to Kaldenkirchen Germany.

XVI Corps command post, was located in Kaldenkirchen Germany in early March 1945. The 75th Infantry Division was assigned to the XVI Corps for OPERATION GRENADE. That Operation had the troops advancing across the Ruhr River  which had been flooded by the retreating Germans, to the western side of the Rhine River. The British and Canadians were to the north as the troops advanced towards the Rhine River.

 

Tor to the Rhine

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In Orsoy Germany just south of Rhineberg Germany, I was walking back from sketching the ferry across the Rhine  River and decided to sketch the city gate. Orsoy used to be a walled in medieval fortress town. This gate or Tor in German faces west towards the Rhine. Steel doors have been added which can be shut if the river floods and gets to the city gate, or Tor in German.

My Air B&B host told me that the other gates to the city had to be demolished by the American troops because the American Sherman tanks could not fit through them.  This gate is larger than the rest and therefore survived the war. By March 31, 1945 there were 3 Treadway Bridges, 2 Bailey Bridges and a Heavy Pontoon Bridge built across the Rhine. No bridge was build at Orsoy, so I don’t think the 75th Infantry would have crossed there. I also know that the 75th crossed before the first of the bridges was built, they went across with landing craft.

The 79th Infantry Division likely did cross the Rhine on a treadway bridge north or Orsoy Germany  as they invaded Dinslaken Germany. A  Treadway Bridge was built by the 17th Armored Engineer Battalion, The M2 Steel Treadway Bridge, is a modular floating bridge system used by the U.S. Army to cross rivers with heavy vehicles, . had over 1152 feet of  steel runway treads and 93 pneumatic floats. The project required just six hours and fifteen minutes to complete, setting a record for the size of the bridge. The Treadway Bridge was the fasted to build. The Bailey Bridges built were much sturdier.

Regardless of the bridge crossing sites, I believe the 75th Infantry Division, C-Company, lead by my father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken  would have crossed much further to the north. They would have crossed just south of Wesel Germany and then crossed the Lippe Canal to clear the area between the Canal and the Lippe River. I thought the canal locks likely were used to make their way north across the canal, but the German military destroyed bridges over the Lippe Canal near places like Hunxe as Allied forces pushed into Germany in 1944 and 1945. It only makes sense for the 75th Infantry to cross the Rhine right where the Lippe Canal and the Lippe River empty onto the Rhine. That small strip of land they would mean they crossed at or just south of Buderich Germany. So you can see that knowing exact;y where the troops were is a bit of a guessing game, but new facts help to zone in on the truth.

 

Koblinz Germany: The Patron Saint of Artillerymen

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This sketch marked a deviation from the military route of the 75th Infantry Division. I drove several hour south to Koblenz Germany to visit with my very distant cousin Nini Thorspecken-Friebe. To help cut the weight of my travels at the start, I shipped 6 empty sketchbooks to Nini from America. That saved considerably on the weight I would have to carry when I flew into Europe. Since I decided that a car rental was the only way to accomplish this sketch project, I could pick up the six sketchbooks and keep them in the trunk of the car.

On day one of this trip I had my identity stolen with someone trying to buy a plane ticket to Amsterdam using my credit card information. I had to cut the credit card in half and Seacoast Bank refused to work out a way that I could access the money I had saved for travel expenses. The only way the bank would allow expenses is if I had the new credit card they were sending out. The problem of course was that I was constantly on the move in Europe. I had that card shipped to my brother in Connecticut and then he sent it to Nini where I picked it up on September 28. I had to be clandestine about the process since the bank was treating me as if I was a criminal. That first month of travel was rough, but I always found something to eat. Apples and and pears were plentiful in the Netherlands. I would always throw fruit in my art bag if I saw them roadside.  The first month was certainly a lesson in keeping expenses low. The habit persists. If a breakfast buffet has apples in a bowl, one will always leave with me.

In Koblenz, I stayed in an Air B&B which was in the old city. Built in the 1600s the place was constructed in the traditional style with large wooden beams and stucco. The top floor room I had wasn’t build for someone who is six foot two. I bumped my head a few times and started to walk hunched over. A block away was Mozart’s childhood home. There was so much history in such a small cramped area.

The Barbara Monument is only a block or so from where Nini and her husband Raoul live in Koblenz. The Barbara-Monument features the central figure of Saint Barbara holding a gun barrel and palm branch, flanked by two allegorical figures representing War and Peace. Saint Barbara is the patron saint of artillerymen. I didn’t realize there was a patron saint of artillerymen. Besides being a monument it also functions as a fountain, although the water feature was off when I did the sketch.

Nini and Raul treated me to a very traditional German breakfast. Small breads rolls are called brötchen in German. There were meats and cheeses, jams and Nutella, and locks. The royal touch is a hard boiled egg prepared just right so the yoke is semi solid but a bit runny. The egg top is cut off and a tiny spoon is used to scoop out the egg white and yoke. I made it a point to try and find places that offered such a delicious spread to start the day.

Raoul really seemed to appreciate my project. He is in the German military as a medic. He is an anesthesiologist. He showed me his military backpack which I absolutely envied. I asked him about where he thought I might see the dragons teeth which were set up on the western front before World War II to stop an allied advance into Germany. He had plenty of suggestions. When he saw my sketch of the Sherman tank decked out as a mine sweeper, he pulled up YouTube videos that showed the vehicle in action. When Raoul saw sketches of beautiful Belgian cities with historic buildings surrounding a large square, he lamented that Germany once had such beautiful city centers before World War II saw them all destroyed.

He and Nini are world travelers. They have a map in their apartment that shows all the countries they have been to. It is an impressive display. I should set up a color coded map some day. Nini took me up in a lift which went across the Rhein River to the Koblenz Ehrenbreistein, which is a huge fort that acted as a military barracks. I had a-ent many days looking for a route across the Rhine River and now I found myself floating over the river on a lift.

Koblenz is on the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine River so it is importantly militarily. That evening after the sun set, I walked a long path down from the fort, not exactly sure where the path would lead me to. Descending that dark path as the sun set behind the Koblenz skyline on the opposite shore of the Rhine, I felt this really was an adventure. I was hoping to resolve the tech issue with my laptop refusing to power up, and the financial problems of dealing with SeaCoast Bank. I couldn’t solve everything in the one weekend but at least the wheels were in motion. For this one moment, walking in the dark, I felt at peace.

During World War II Koblenz hosted the command of German Army Group B and, like many German cities, was heavily bombed and rebuilt afterwards. From March 16-19, 1945, it was the scene of heavy fighting by the U.S. 87th Infantry Division in support of Operation Lumberjack. The 75th Infantry Division was much further north fighting in the Ruhr pocket of Germany at the time.

The sketch opportunities in Koblenz were endless, but I needed to get back north and on the trail of the 75th Infantry Division’s movements into the heart of Germany.

Crossing the Rhine River

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It turned out there was a very simple route to get to the Rhine River from Rheinberg Germany. Just south of Rheinberg is the town of Orsoy which has a ferry that crosses cars over the River. Since this is a narrow crossing site, my Air B&B host was convinced this is where my father would have crossed the Rhine. However I have a detailed military map that shows three crossing sites further north. I am convinced the 75th Infantry division would have crossed at the northern most crossing sites since records show that they were the northern most troops along the western edge of the Rhine. To the north of the 75th Infantry Division, Montgomery’s British Infantry Divisions began.

I stayed at an Air B&B in Alpen Germany and according to the military map I have that town was the division line between the British troops and the American Troops. I actually returned to Alpen Germany a second time when I realized the 75th Infantry had been just south of the town and very likely in the town.

I hiked to the ferry south of Orsoy Germany. A motorcyclist was the first to arrive to wait for the ferry. He waited a while for another motorcyclist and they compared their tricked out bikes.  Several cars lined up and then the ferry arrived from the western shore of the Rhine. The ferry kept sailing back and forth as long as cars lined up at the docking points. I considered sketching on the ferry but realized the trip would not have allowed enough time to get a sketch. The biggest landmark at the crossing site was a huge nuclear reactor on the western shore. That was certainly not at the river’s edge in 1945.

The 75th Infantry Division was in position on the western shore of the Rhine by March 13, 1945 in Rheinberg and Buderich Germany. Since the 75th Infantry Division was tasked with clearing the area between the Lippe River and the Lippe Canal, I decided that the most likely crossing sites would be at Buderich Germany. Buderich is famous for being the site where General Montgomery showed Winston Churchill  how the Rhine River crossings were proceeding. This  happened on March 25, 1945 one day after the 75th Infantry Division had already made the crossing.

On the day that the 75th Infantry Division made their crossing, a pontoon bridge was under construction near Wallach Germany where American heavy artillery was stationed. That bridge was completed at 4pm and it would have been the first bridge across the Rhine but a landing craft got swept up in the river’s current and it crashed into the structure, dismantling it. The 75th didn’t have the luxury of a bridge, they had to make the crossings in small landing craft.

On the 1945 Military map there is a place called Milchplatz. It isn’t a town, but rather a gravel mining company that is still in operation today. I found this out the hard way on one of my hikes east from Rhineberg Germany to get to the Ruhr River. I was making good progress when the Milchplatz mining facility blocked my movement east. Closed metal gates blocked the path east. Since it is private property, I abandoned the hike to the Rhine. If I was tenacious, I probably could have hiked around the large mining facility, but I didn’t want to hike off trail to accomplish that task. I just satisfied myself that I got very close to the southern most crossing site of the three in the 75th Infantry Division’s area of operations. I am convince that would have crossed further north.

The 75th on the military map was identified as a covering force. A covering force operates in conjunction with a larger force with the role of providing a strong outpost line, in this case to the north. The covering force is capable of operating independently of the main force. A covering force usually operated forward of the main force in offense or defense.

March 12, 1945: Rheinberg Germany, Fallen

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On March 12 1945 at 9:35 PM the 75th Infantry Division  replaced the 135th Infantry Division in Rheinberg Germany. Rheinberg is a quaint little village on the west short of the Rhine just south of Wiesel on the opposite shore. There was a change of course for the Rhine River over the years, so Rhineberg isn’t as close to the river as it used to be. It was a walled city in medieval times and there are some remnants of the ancient walls that remain.

From the village center I decided to hike straight east towards the Rhine. There was a path between the church and a day care that lead to a wide open field. As I crossed the field I began to hear heavy traffic in front of me. The feeling that I might hike right to the waters edge just like in 1945 began to fade. I probably could have sprinted across that highway, but this fallen tree caught my eye. It must have been stuck by lightning or snapped in a very heavy wind because the tree was splintered like a toothpick.

With the fallen tree leaning forward, it looked like it was struggling to get back to its roots. To me it looks like a man leaning forward as he gets ready to run. So much of what I have been sketching is architectural, a church, a headquarters a village square, and I decided I can just observe nature as well. The times I feel I am truly walking in my father’s footsteps are these quiet moments wandering across a field or through the woods with my hiking boots getting wet from the dew, and navigating by the direction of the sun.

On the 24th of March the Rhine River crossings started. Code named OPERATION FLASHPOINT, the Ninth US Army’s assault was lead by General William H. Simpson. Montgomery’s 21st Army Group occupied the northern part of the Allied line, but it lacked adequate combat power to execute main effort operations on its own. The American Army was well equipped with plenty of supplies and artillery ire power. The two field armies with the British Second Army in the north and the Ninth US Army in the south, would cross the Rhine abreast at four crossing sites. A massive artillery barrage would precede the crossing, after which the war’s largest deployment of paratroopers in a single-lift, OPERATION VARSITY, would take place across the Rhine, just north of Wesel Germany.

The 290th Infantry, 75th Infantry Division, C-Company would  cross the Rhine on March 26, 1945.

March 10-13 1945: Kamp-Lintfort Germany

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On March 10, 1945 the 75th Infantry Division Command Post was at Kamp-Lintford Germany. The 75th Infantry troops were also moved to an assembly area near Kamp-Lintford to replace elements of the 35th Infantry Division. The replacemts happened under the cover of darkness, because the Germans were so close on the opposite side of the Rhine River. The 75th then took up positions on the western side of the Rhine River waiting for the opportunity to cross. They were positioned along the Rhine River from Buderich in the north to Rheinberg Germany in the south. Positions were established by March 13, 1945. The Canadian 156th Brigade occupied a position just to the left of the 75th Infantry Division.

After sketching and studying maps of the area, I decided that C-Company likely would have been in a position to cross the Rhine at Buderich Germany. Outposts were established and patrols sent out to secure the West Bank of the Rhine. Engineers and mine platoons set about defusing the many mines buried by the retreating German Army.

An 11 man 75th Infantry patrol crossed the Rhine River on March 16, 1945 but encountered enemy resistance and had to retreat, gaining no  information about the far shore. Another 11 man patrol from the 75th Infantry 2nd battalion crossed the same night and they succeeded to advance some distance into the enemy territory. They found several abandoned enemy positions.

1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was leading C-Company which was part of the 1st Battalion. I do not know yet if they were on one of these dangerous recon Rhine River crossing missions.

Another objective of the 75th Infantry was to veil American operations and objective’s of XVI Corps. As far as is known no German assault boat squad was successful in gaining information about the American positions. The planned Rhine crossing near Wesel Germany, on the northern part of the Rhine, was to be the largest amphibious and airborne operation mounted since D-Day. It’s success depended on absolute secrecy.

Positions remained static with occasional rounds of artillery fire. “On March 10, 1945, the XVI Corps successfully completed its mission in Ninth Army’s Operation “Grenade.” From 23 February until the completion of this operation, this Corps has undergone many types of combat, including a river crossing, rapid pursuit of the fleeing enemy, and tough, slow fighting against a determined enemy who, by every form of defensive fighting, was attempting to protect his last escape routes across the Rhine in the Wesel Area.’” – JOHN B. ANDERSON
Major General, U. S. Army, Commanding

The Rheinberg War Cemetery which I sketched is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. The majority of the servicemen who died are buried in the countries where they fell. There are 3335 English and American casualties buried in this cemetery. The cemetery was first opened in 1946. Most of the casualties are air men who died in air raids over Germany. Their bodies were often buried where the planes crashed, by a roadside, riverbank or in a forest. There are also 400 soldiers buried here who died on the advance from the Rhine River into Germany,

March 5, 1945: Crossing the Roer River into Germany

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The 75th Infantry Division had to wait on the western side of the Roer River for several weeks because the Germans had destroyed a dam up river and flooded the entire river valley. The river ain’t that wide in peace time, maybe about 25 to 50 yards.

OPERATION GRENADE which was a push from the Rowe River to the Rhine River began on February 6, 1945, once the waters had subsided a bit. The 75th Infantry likely crossed the Roer south of Heinsberg and north of Geilenkirchen Germany. After studying maps of the area, I decided Hilfarth Germany fits in the sweet spot where the troops might have crossed the river.

A historical sign at Hilfarth pointed out that American troops used the bridge to advance over the Roer River. The bridge was partially destroyed but perhaps only passable by foot. The bridge was repaired and reopened to car traffic on May 18, 1949.

The 75th Infantry was part of the 9th Army Group under General William Hood Simpson. On March 1, 1945 the 75th Infantry was assigned to the XVI Corps as they advanced into Germany. by March 5, 1945 the 75th had advanced as far as Rheinberg Germany. C-Company commanded by 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was among the most northerly of the American Troops with the British to their left in the north. The British push to the Rhine River from the Roer was known as OPERATION VERITABLE  The 75th took up a defensive position on the Rhine just south of Wesel Germany on the opposite side of the Rhine.

All of these movements seemed so abstract when I read them at first but once I followed the route and sat to sketch the Roer River, things fell into place and made sense to me. Once C-Company of the 7th Infantry got to the Rhine, they stayed behind the levies during the day and patrolled along the rivers edge at night. The goal of C-Company was to keep the Germans in the dark about when and where the 9th army would cross the Rhine River. If the Germans found any intelligence about the next crossing, then many American lives would be lost.

Heinsberg Germany Jewish Memorial

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just to the south east of Roermond Netherlands, across the border is Heinsberg Germany. This memorial was placed in a quiet park setting next to a busy intersection. When I started to sketch, school children were making their way home from school, shouting and playing along the fence that borders the memorial space. The memorial was placed in honor of the Jewish citizens of Heinsberg who are victims of the holocaust.

When Hitler came into power, the Jewish citizens of Heinsberg Germany suffered. Anti Jewish leaflets circulated in the town stated: “Whoever still has honor and pride, does not buy from Jews”. All Jewish goods were boycotted. A tannery in Heisenberg was used to supply food to Jewish residents after krystalnacht (night of broken glass), when Jewish businesses had store windows broken and stores destroyed. The Heisenberg Synagogue was burned on krystalnacht. The Jewish cemetery was desecrated and destroyed. It is not possible to establish how many Heisenberg citizens helped Jews escape across the border into the Netherlands. One midwife paid for her efforts to help with her life. Despite a few citizens trying to help, the Jews were deported east where they  disappeared. Few Jewish residents ever returned home.

Heinsberg was heavily damaged during World War II particularly during the Battle of the Bulge and then OPERATION BLACKCOCK,  which cleared Germans from the area around the Netherlands border. The fighting involved fierce combat between German and British troops. The 75th Infantry Division was not involved in these battles but did operate along the Rhine River near the area in February-March 1945 after crossing from the west bank. The division’s combat actions included a patrol of the Rhine from Wesel to Homburg, a rest period in Luneville, and then moving to patrol a defensive front along the Maas River near Roermond, Netherlands, which was just west of the German border. 

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Echt Netherlands: RAF Short Stirling

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Echt Germany was the 75th Infantry Division Command Post after Pannegen Netherlands. Troops were preparing for the move east towards the Rhine River. This was likely the command post as the 75th Infantry advanced from the Roer River to the Rhine River in OPERATION GRENADE. The Roer River had been flooded by the enemy causing a delay in getting across the Roer and advancing to the Rhine River. Operation grenade began February 8th through 5 March, 1945.

This sculpture was created in remembrance of the crash of a Short Stirling Bomber, registration W7630, of 7th Squadron, near the monastery at Echt, Limburg, Netherlands, on September 10, 1942. The plane went down in a boggy marsh near the Monistary. The plane was on its way to bomb targets in Düsseldorf Germany. Tow of the airmen were killed in the crash. One was captured and  another escaped, but was later killed in action when his plane was shot down over Luxembourg.

The aircraft was part of the Royal Air Force (RAF) and was engaged in combat operations at the time of the incident. The crash sites does not relate directly to the movements of the 75th Infantry but it shows the overall loss as so many units and divisions advanced on the European campaign.

Echt Susteren was situated under the flight routes of allied bombers heading from Great Britain to wards targets in Germany.The Maas River was a very important landmark for navigators on those flights. There  are six crash sites in Echt. Three of the six aircraft were shot down by anti aircraft artillery (FLAQ). 11 of the 63 downed airmen survived the war as prisoners of war.

I parked in the monastery parking lot and walked towards the memorial. A large bus was parked near the memorial but the students were on their way inside the monastery. They were a boisterous crowd. It was a cold fall morning. The sculpture was at the corner edge of a large field. Woods surrounded the field creating a very strong wood funnel that blew hard into the corner opening where the sculpture stood. I picked my location not based on aesthetics, but based on the fact that a sign for the memorial blocked me from being in the worst of the cold winds. The angle worked out well since I love the way the bent propeller is thrust against the light sky.

Besides the propeller, the sculpture had a V sign that holds the propeller up symbolizing victory.

Overloon Netherlands: Museum44

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Overloon is the town just west of Born, Netherlands where the 290th Infantry, 75th Infantry division was stationed for a short time in the Netherlands. Overloon was the site of a large tank battle back in 1944. A lot of stuff from that battle was left behind. Overloon was liberated on the 18th of September and the 19th of September 1944. The River Maas is right next to the museum. A small battle group of about 80 German soldiers made it across the river to the Belgian side at night. The Americans decided to fall back to avoid casualties that night. The Air Force was useless at night, the same with artillery and tanks, they could not fight an enemy they could not see.  There is a bridge less than a quarter mile north of Overloon which I had driven by when trying to get to the museum. That bridge was there in 1945 and the Germans wanted to keep it open for an attack west towards the Netherlands.

The next morning there was light and good weather conditions. The Americans moved back forward into Overloon, but the Germans had already retreated back across the river. So the town was liberated twice. There was a German anti tank gun next to the chapel in Overloon. It knocked out 2 or 3 Sherman tanks. The crews survived. The curator recovered some of the Sherman tracks a few yards from the museum. The were less than a foot under ground.

The museum building was occupied by Germans. The tall chimney of the building has bricks which allow footholds for a cleaner to climb inside. Wedged in the top of the chimney was a bottom plate of a German trench periscope. A German must have been sitting in the chimney to watch the surrounding landscape. Rather than take it down, it is still wedged in the chimney. It is part of the museum’s history.

The British who had liberated Overloon halted their advance. Because of this stall, the Germans were able to dig in. They also placed a large amount of land mines. There were more land mines placed north east of Overloon than 0n the beaches of a Normandy.

The 75th Infantry Division had a field artillery battalion with them, the 75th Field Artillery Brigade. They fired from Overloon. The Americans could not advance but they could offer support. The 75th was stationed in tents but if a private residence was made available it was a priority. The museum director’s grand parents hosted some British soldiers in the attic. One soldier got a serious fever. The grandmother told home to come downstairs to sleep on a proper bed instead of the hay upstairs. A British office found out and said there was no need for the soldiers to sleep in the bed. Grandma held her ground saying it was her house, so the soldier stayed in bed. She overruled the officer.

Cases of foot powder were left behind for the American soldiers feet. They had the same socks for over 4 months and their socks got crusty and wet, which would cause trench foot, which would result in bleeding blisters. Once a soldier got trench foot they could not fight. On my trek to sketch the 75th Infantry division I am having to find ways to dry my sock each night.

All the American soldiers were volunteers. There was no draft at the time. People back then were most concerned about what they could do for the country. Now Americans are more self centered. The only/ concern is what is in it for me? That is part of the reason I went on this trip to focus on a time when Americans had different ideals. Today there is no space for dialogue, only fighting. When I look at Social media on X, I turn it off any time I see someone throwing a sucker punch. I tend to not look at social media as much because of this refusal to watch senseless violence.