Susteren Netherlands Memorial

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This is a 88mm PAK 43/41 Anti-tank gun which was captured by the Allies after heavy fighting between September 1944 and January 1945. Major John Edward Evens gifted the cannon to Susteren Netherlands when the city was still on the front lines of the fighting. The mayor of Susteren decided to leave the cannon in the public square as a constant reminder of the war. Major Evan’s is commemorated in the town of Susteren with a street named after him (Major Evanslaan). An oak tree was planted in the town square in his honor in 1985. The tree is stately and tall right next to the cannon. When I was sketching. I didn’t know the tree was planted in his honor, thankfully it is in the sketch.

Susteren Netherlands was liberated on January 17, 1945 after very heavy fighting. Residents of the town had been forced to evacuate by the Germans in November 1944. The British B-Company of the Queens Royal Regiment were responsible for capturing the town.

In May of 2001 the gun was fully restored and it now has its original sand and camouflage coloring. Susteren is one town North East of where the 75th infantry, C-Company had been stationed in Buchten and Born Netherlands They would have been in this area around March 2-3, 1945.

I am finding that on this trip I only end up eating once a day. The hope each day is to finish 2 or 3 sketches and if I do that there isn’t much time left for relaxing and eating in a restaurant. Most of the locations I am sketching are outside, so my first thought each morning is the weather. I like to check The Weather Channel app. Part of the reason is that I like the opening logo graphics. It flashed a sun, a rain drop and now a snow flake. The opening message says “Be a force of nature.” I like that. I need that little pep talk before I put on all my layers to head outside.

I now wear 2 pairs of long pants. One is the light weight camping pants with the legs that can be zippered off, then I wear the thicker pants on top of that. It is working well so far to keep my legs warm. I wear the lumberjack shirt I bought in Oregon every day and then layer a light down shell and a rain jacket on top of that. It might not rain every day, but the outer jacket kepts the heat in and the wind out.

Margraten Netherlands: Morning Woman

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The Morning Woman stands at the end of a long reflecting pool in the court of honor at the Margraten Netherlands American Cemetery. The statue represents a woman who had suffered loss due to the war. She was sculpted by Joseph Kiselewski and he considered this statue to be his finest work. kiselewski was born to Polish immigrants in Minnesota. His first language was Polish and he was the 4th of 9 children. He was trained in Minnesota, New York Paris and Rome. He had a studio 9n NYC from 1929 to 1980.

On the walls on either side of the Morning Woman are long 8 foot high granite walls with the names of the missing. 1722 names are on those two walls. On a few names there are rosettes which mark the names of those who have since been recovered and identified. The names of the cities where the men lost their lives were engraved behind the Morning Woman. Cities where The 75th Infantry fought were in Venlo, Rheinberg, and the Ruhr. I now know the Dean Bergeron lost his life somewhere between the Rhine and Dortmund Germany.

Behind the Morning Woman is a tall memorial tower. Engraved 0n it is the following, “Each for his own memorial, earned praise that will never die, and with it the greatest of all sepulchers, not that which his mortal bones are laid, but a home in the minds of men.” Inside the tower is a chapel. The government of the Netherlands donated dozens of lights which seem to float high above in the setting.

Beyond the chapel is the burial area covering 65.5 acres divided into 16 plot sections. To get to the headstone of Dean Bergeron, I walked past thousands of white crosses. Once I found the right section, then I had to find the right row. It truly is overwhelming. The fall leaves were just beginning to fall. The maintenance crews were out mowing the lawn. I feared I might get in the way while I was sketching, but one of the staff approached and respected what I was doing.

Unique to this cemetery, the Dutch people have a program where families can adopt a grave site of one of the fallen. There is a waiting list of families and individuals who want to adopt a soldiers grave site. They bring flowers to the grave sites and research the soldier as a way to honor their sacrifice.

The visitor center at the cemetery had an amazing exhibit about the campaigns where these soldiers lost their lives through narrative text photos artifacts and a film. One woman from the office saw that I was trying to locate a particular soldier and she came 0ut to help me. With her help I located a Dean Bergeron quickly. Not all the soldiers from C-Company who died are buried at Margraten. Some were sent back to the states. I didn’t research all 24 of the men killed in action under the command of 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken. My goal for the day was just to identify one of the soldiers who rest at Margraten.

One of the museum panels at Matgraten was quietly removed by the Trump Administration. The panel detailed the contributions of black soldiers who converted an orchard into the cemetery it is today just using pick aces and shovels. When the cemetery was first initiated the bodies of white soldiers just kept coming and the black soldiers worked hard to keep up with the incoming dead. These black soldiers fought on two fronts. At home in America they faced racism and in the Netherlands they faced the grueling demands of keeping up with the bodies that had to be buried. The soldiers shed tears as they lowered their American brothers in arms into the ground. Now the memory of their service is quietly being erased.

Margraten Netherlands: American Cemetery

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I decided I should look up a soldier who died under the command of my father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken. The first soldier on the list was Private Dean Bergeron from Rhode Island. He died March 29, 1945 which is shortly after C-Company of the 75th Infantry Division had crossed the Rhine River into Germany. They had been assigned to clear the area between the Lippe River and the Lippe Canal. The 75th was in a battle to take Dorsten Germany in the north of the Ruhr Pocket. They would have had to cross the Lippe Canal to enter the city of Dorsten.  The straight, man made canal, is wide enough for two large barges to pass one another going east and west. The Germans blew a bridge to further slow the advance towards Dorsten.

The 75th Infantry was bogged down on the approach to Dorsten Germany. There were many Enemy Anti Aircraft gun encampments that were well dug in and well defended.  Each had to be aken out with infantry action.  That would mean running straight into German small arms fire or machine gun fire.

Fighting was house to house south west of Dorsten. The Intense enemy fire was worst at night, and caused an M7 Priest to ignite. The M7 carried a 105 mm Howitzer. The British gave it the Priest nickname because of the pulpit like machine gun ring. The fire from that ignited vehicle made the other vehicles easily visible to the Germans.  The fire had to be put out to allow for some camouflage that night. Somewhere in the chaos of this fight, Dean Bergeron lost his life.

Dorsten was needed to bridge the Lippe River and supply armor northward. Troops north of the Lippe River were working on sweeping around the Ruhr Pocket to the north to encircle it.

Dean Bergeron was born 13 February 1920, in Quebec, Canada. He was the son of Antoine Joseph Bergeron and Lydia Laprade. He emigrated to the United States to Vermont under the name of Aldille Joseph Dean Bergeron on 6 October 1920. He later settled in the area of Providence, Rhode Island and enlisted in the US Army on 31 July 1944 at Fort McClellan in Alabama. My father was born in 1920 so he and Dean were very close in age.

Margraten Netherlands: Prelude to the Rhine Crossing

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Margraten Netherlands is the burial site for all the American soldiers who died crossing the Rhine River and encircling the Ruhr Industrial Pocket. Margraten is the only American cemetery in the Netherlands.  8,301 American soldiers are buried here. This is where the soldiers who died under the command of 1st Lieutenant  Arthur Thorspecken would be buried. So Margraten was not on the route of the 75th Infantry as they pressed forward into Germany but it became the final resting place for many. The names of 1722 Americans whose remains were never recovered or not identified are listed 0n two long walls on either side of the Court of Honor. There are 106 graves marked “unknown”.

At the entrance to the cemetery are two large stone murals that depict the movements of all the allied troops as they attacked Germany in 1945. The maps were protected by waste high glass partitions that discouraged visitors from touching the wall. I was surprised at how many people visit this cemetery even on a cold morning in September.

There was one very large map that depicted the entire history of all the troop movements. Then there was the second tall mural which depicted the movement to cross the Rhine River into a Germany. On this map, I could find the movements of the 75th Infantry Division. The 75th wasn’t specifically identified, but they had been assigned to the US XVI Corps as part of the 9th Army and that division was on the map. I recognized the cities I had already sketched and the cities I was about to sketch.

Depicted on the cemetery map was OPERATION GRENADE in which the 75th infantry as part of the 9th Army advanced from the Ruhr River to the Rhine River which was the final water barrier before advancing towards Berlin Germany. I only drew the movements of the 75th infantry and ignored everything else. Operation Grenade began February 5, 1945 and went through March 5, 1945. The Germans had blown up a dam up river which flooded the entire Roer River valley which delayed the beginning of the campaign. The German General Field Marshall Gerd von Rinstedt wanted to withdraw behind the Rhine, but Hitler would not allow him, saying that it would only delay the inevitable fight.

Engraved in the granite walls was the description of the Allied advance. “In the early morning hours of 23 February, following an intense artillery bombardment, the leading units of the 9th Army lowered their boats into the swirling waters of the still flooded Roer River. The swift currents and enemy artillery fire at the crossing sites made passage across the river hazardous. Once across the river the US 9th Army offensive rapidly gathered momentum. On 25  February, the XVI Corps crossed on the left flank. Armored units were committed as the direction of the advance turned northward and broke through enemy lines.”

The 75th Infantry Division, C-Company would cross the Rhine on March 24, 1945 late in the afternoon.

 

 

American Sherman Mine Sweeper Tank

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At the Overloon Oorlogs Military Museum, a curator came to meet me in the lobby. She walked me to this viscous looking Sherman Tank that sported huge thick chains on a giant spinning drum that was positioned out in front of the vehicle. She told me that my father, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken likely walked behind one of these beasts while he was in the Netherlands. The Germans would position many mines as they retreated from the advancing Allied army.

The name of this tank is the Sherman Crab MK1. It is a flail tank with the rotating roll, that hits round bullets with a force of more than 330,000 pounds on the ground  causing the mines to explode in front of the tank. It is a way to created a safe passageway for troops to move forward. The tank would have a crew of 5 men and could reach a top speed of 25 miles per hour. It has a 75mm cannon and 2 machine guns.

Besides all the armament, there were sections of the museum which told the more personal side of having to be in an occupied country. Helene Egger was 10 years old when the Netherlands became occupied by the Germans. She was Jewish. Her parents were divorced. She lived with her 2 older brothers in her grandmothers house in Amsterdam. Her mother  developed a brain tumor and died in 1941.  Helena was devastated.

Less than 6 months later her oldest brother went to a work camp. He was actually sent to Westerbroek Jewish transit camp in Drenthe. Shortly after, her other brother went to the work camp voluntarily. He was bored of living at his grandparents home and missed his brother.

The Westerbork transit camp became a gathering place for Jews before they  were transported to labor camps in Germany. Approximately 107,ooo Jews and 245 Sinai and Roma were deported to Westerbork  and then “to the east”. They were transported in freight cars without food or water. Most were sent to extermination camps like Auchwitz and Sobibor, while other went to concentration camps like Bergen Belsen and Theresienstadt.

Her brothers ultimately were sent to Auchwitz concentration camp where they were murdered. Her father as well was later rounded up by the Nazis and murdered in a concentration camp. Ultimately Helene lost everyone in her immediate family, but her grandparents, Aunt and Uncle kept her safely hidden in the country. Helene lived to be 94 years old.

Overloon Netherlands: Russian Tank

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The Russian tanks in WWII never went as far west as Overloon Netherlands. The Russians stopped when they got to Berlin Germany. I was advised by the director of Museum44 in Overloon Netherlands to go to the  Oorlags Museum of Overloon. This Russian tank was parked in the woods leading to the museum.

The Battle of Overloon was fought in the Second World War between Allied forces and the German Army which took place in and around the village of Overloon in the south-east of the Netherlands between 30 September and 18 October 1944. The battle was an Allied victory, after the Allies launched Operation Aintree. Signs in the wooded area leading up to the museum reminded visitors that much of the fighting happened right in this wooded area

This tank is the T-34 with an 85 mm cannon. It weighs 35 tons. It was a notorious tank because it had firepower, solid armor and was very mobile. It’s designed allowed for mass production. About nine times more T-34s left the factory than German Panzer tanks. Since these tanks were fighting on Germany’s eastern front, 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken probably never saw a T-34. He most certainly would have seen German Panzer tanks.

The director of Museum44 was kind enough to call someone he knew at the Oorlags Museum so that a curator could show me items in the museum that tied in directly to the period I was researching which was in late February and early March of 1945.

The Oorlags museum is cavernous with hundreds of military vehicles on display. Having the curator walk me directly to several American Sherman tanks made my life so much easier since I am no expert on makes and models of military hardware.

One entire area of the museum is devolved just to displaying the thousands of different types of shells that were in use to kill the enemy. War is a crazy vicious business. As I was doing this sketch it started to rain. Those are the explosions you see all over the page.

Born Netherlands: Common Wealth Cemetery

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I was directed to go to this Common Wealth Cemetery by a woman who saw me sketching the Born Church, and invited me to meet her family and sit for a cup of coffee. She drove me to this site and even showed me a good parking spot behind a medical facility. This is the Mary Mother of Mercy Cemetery and it has three graves of British soldiers. I returned the next day to sketch.

I found it interesting that Major G.C. Williams was listed as Artists Rifles. He died on December 23rd 1944 at the age of 36.

Artists Rifles, 28th Battalion London Regiment Artist's Cap Badge ...The Artists’ Rifles was a British Army Reserve regiment, during WWII it served as an officer training unit instead of deploying overseas. The “Artists'” in its name is a legacy from its predecessor, the Artists’ Rifles, a Volunteer Corps unit formed in 1859 that included painters, sculptors, and musicians. During the Second World War, it was used as an officer training unit.
The cap badge featured profiles of Roman gods Mars and Minerva. The regiment was not deployed during the Second World War, functioning as an Officers Training Corps throughout the war.
J.G. Thompson was a gunner with the Royal Horse Artillery. He died December 24, 1944 at the age of 31. Corporal R. Mc Bane was with the Riffle Brigade. He died December 8, 1044 at the age of 23.

The graves are meticulously maintained with live flowers and carefully planned plantings. White stones were at the base of the graves so grass was kept away from the headstones and then there were areas of natural plantings and potted live flowers.

Dutch families adopt Allied graves and maintain the plots. All the war graves in the Netherlands have been adopted and there is a long waiting list, which could take years, for a family to finally adopt a World War II grave site. There are still many in the Netherlands who remember vividly the liberation day celebrations and how important that was to the country and the world. The next generation grew up knowing how big liberation was and the importance of the sacrifice these men made for their freedom. On Facebook, I saw photos of the lovely family who maintain this grave site. The parents are introducing the tradition to their children. People who maintain the graves are now being introduced to living family of the serviceman they are honoring. Now they get to see his picture and learn a little about him from people who loved him the most.

March 2, 1945 Holtum Netherlands

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On March 2, 1945, the entire 75th Infantry Division  was moved 33 miles by motor troop carrier trucks from Helden Netherlands to new assembly areas at Buchten Born and Holtum Netherlands. These small villages are near Venlo Netherlands which had just been liberated on March 1, 1945. After a few hours on Buchten Born and Holtum the troops were again moved to an area near Venlo. They were being moved into position to help clear out any last German resistance in Venlo and Roermund Netherlands.

At a camp of the American troops the Museum44 director found holes, craters that were full of glass. Much of the glass was from broken Coke a Cole bottles. Most were broken, a few were complete and some were still full of Coke. The Americans always had more than enough supplies.

After the Netherlands was liberated, the American government printed Dutch currency. The bills were printed using American plates so in some ways they resemble American currency. Other money was printed because there was a fear that Germans would counterfeit the money, which was indeed a problem. Germans printed British pound notes in an effort to disrupt the economy. Each time America liberated a country they printed this liberation currency.

Officially there were three divisions on this area of the Netherlands. Soldiers used poisoned wood alcohol to clean their boots. The alcohol wasn’t actually poisoned it was just given that name so the soldiers would not drink it. While exploring the top floor of Museum44, there were wasps buzzing at the insides of the windows. The director became very quiet. 8There was a display that resembled an American encampment. I figured if I didn’t disturb the wasps, they would ignore me. It is hard not to swat at a wasp when he buzzes by your ear. I finally shouted “retreat!” and made my way quickly down the ladder to the floor below.

The Saint Martin’s Church which I sketched in Holtum, dates back to about 1200 when an aisle less church was built next to a feudal lord’s home. The tower was added in 1460. The ancient medieval structure is largely intact to this day.

Overloon Netherlands: Museum44

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Overloon is the town just west of Born, Netherlands where the 290th Infantry, 75th Infantry division was stationed for a short time in the Netherlands. Overloon was the site of a large tank battle back in 1944. A lot of stuff from that battle was left behind. Overloon was liberated on the 18th of September and the 19th of September 1944. The River Maas is right next to the museum. A small battle group of about 80 German soldiers made it across the river to the Belgian side at night. The Americans decided to fall back to avoid casualties that night. The Air Force was useless at night, the same with artillery and tanks, they could not fight an enemy they could not see.  There is a bridge less than a quarter mile north of Overloon which I had driven by when trying to get to the museum. That bridge was there in 1945 and the Germans wanted to keep it open for an attack west towards the Netherlands.

The next morning there was light and good weather conditions. The Americans moved back forward into Overloon, but the Germans had already retreated back across the river. So the town was liberated twice. There was a German anti tank gun next to the chapel in Overloon. It knocked out 2 or 3 Sherman tanks. The crews survived. The curator recovered some of the Sherman tracks a few yards from the museum. The were less than a foot under ground.

The museum building was occupied by Germans. The tall chimney of the building has bricks which allow footholds for a cleaner to climb inside. Wedged in the top of the chimney was a bottom plate of a German trench periscope. A German must have been sitting in the chimney to watch the surrounding landscape. Rather than take it down, it is still wedged in the chimney. It is part of the museum’s history.

The British who had liberated Overloon halted their advance. Because of this stall, the Germans were able to dig in. They also placed a large amount of land mines. There were more land mines placed north east of Overloon than 0n the beaches of a Normandy.

The 75th Infantry Division had a field artillery battalion with them, the 75th Field Artillery Brigade. They fired from Overloon. The Americans could not advance but they could offer support. The 75th was stationed in tents but if a private residence was made available it was a priority. The museum director’s grand parents hosted some British soldiers in the attic. One soldier got a serious fever. The grandmother told home to come downstairs to sleep on a proper bed instead of the hay upstairs. A British office found out and said there was no need for the soldiers to sleep in the bed. Grandma held her ground saying it was her house, so the soldier stayed in bed. She overruled the officer.

Cases of foot powder were left behind for the American soldiers feet. They had the same socks for over 4 months and their socks got crusty and wet, which would cause trench foot, which would result in bleeding blisters. Once a soldier got trench foot they could not fight. On my trek to sketch the 75th Infantry division I am having to find ways to dry my sock each night.

All the American soldiers were volunteers. There was no draft at the time. People back then were most concerned about what they could do for the country. Now Americans are more self centered. The only/ concern is what is in it for me? That is part of the reason I went on this trip to focus on a time when Americans had different ideals. Today there is no space for dialogue, only fighting. When I look at Social media on X, I turn it off any time I see someone throwing a sucker punch. I tend to not look at social media as much because of this refusal to watch senseless violence.

 

 

Born Netherlands Memorial

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On March 2, 1945 the 290th Infantry Division was moved by a motor convoy from Helden Netherlands to Buchten, Born and Holtum Netherlands. Like the rest of the Netherlands, Born was under German occupation from 1940 to 1945. The period of occupation was a difficult time for the Dutch people, with food shortages, persecution, and forced labor. The Jewish Population in particular suffered during the occupation. 3/4 of the Dutch a Jews did not survive the war.

The official day that all of Netherlands was liberated was May 5, 1945 which would be 2 months after the 290th Infantry was in Born. On September 12, 1944, the first American troops of the 30th Infantry division first set foot on Dutch soil. The next day the Limburg Capitol of Maastricht was reached. The US 9th Army stayed in Maastricht from October 22, 1944 to March 10, 1945. Other US troops were stationed in South Limburg thus the region became the most “Americanized” part of the country.

During the winter of 1944-1945 only the southern cities of the Netherlands were liberated. A German blockade after a strike of the National Railway Company cut off food and fuel shipments to the Netherlands. 4.5 million people began to starve. Many ate tulip bulbs in an effort to stay alive. Many died. It is estimated that 18,000 Dutch people died of malnutrition. The Americans initiated Operation Chowhound to relieve the famine.

It is estimated that between September 1944 and May 1945, about 13,000 Allied troops lost their lives in the fighting in the Netherlands. The Americans lost about 1,135 men. Much of the fighting happened in the air. Of the 3,850 allied aircraft that were shot down over the Netherlands, about 1/5 were American.

The memorial I sketched in Born Netherlands was to honor two Dutch soldiers who gave their lives at this spot on May 10, 1940 in the struggle for freedom and peace for their people and their fatherland. May 10, 1940 was the first day of the German invasion of the Netherlands. The Netherlands surrendered 4 days later when Germany flattened Rotterdam with a bombing campaign and threatened to do the same to other Netherlands cities if they continued to fight.

The memorial plaque says “Piet Walraeven from Maastricht and Harie Custers from Einighausen gave their  lives here on May 10, 1940 in the fight for freedom and peace for their people and country.”