Saint Remy

Terry and I drove to Saint Remy, France from Avignon on market day. The ancient cobbled streets were all lined with vendors selling their wares. Some vendors sold tourist trinkets like cicada sculptures that chirped if you stood too close, or wooden frogs with ridged backs that made noise when a stick was rubbed across it’s back. There were clothing vendors and a huge fresh fruit and produce market. Fish were stored on ice and one lady had a large shark for sale. I heard music in the air and walked towards it. Vincent Van Gogh walked these cobbled streets and perhaps he frequented this market trying to stretch the money his brother gave him or supplies.

Terry shopped, as I hunted for a sketch opportunity. Musicians were playing outside Cara-Ann Boutique. Shoppers, stopping to listen stood at a polite distance. The band was called Dos Amigos with Joselo Gonzalez and Louis Pousa on guitars. They were joined by a cello player whose name I didn’t catch.  I tapped my foot to the beat as I sketched their hip fedoras and slick black silhouettes. Crowds gathered and left between sets. Cara-Ann came over to inspect my sketch and she seemed delighted although I didn’t understand a thing she said. Joselo talked to me once they were done playing and he gave me his business card.

Palais Des Papes

When Terry and I arrived in Avignon, we immediately took a walking tour to the Palais des Papes, or the Pope’s Palace.The entire city of Avignon is surrounded by a fortified stone wall. We followed the wall and winding cobbled streets to the Palais. I settled in and sketched from the public square while Terry explored the gardens. The sky turned slate blue and threatened to rain. I considered sitting under a cafe umbrella but it blocked my view. I got half way through the sketch before it started to rain. My compact umbrella got me through the rest although the page still got soaked.

 When Terry got back, we climbed the steps to explore the gardens together. I walked the streets of Avignon often since I needed to find an internet cafe from which to post. I was exploring back alleys and narrow roads like an expert by the end of our week long stay. We discovered some really wonderful places for dinner but we also discovered that reservations are always required.

Terry witnessed a woman at the Palais church who was screaming during the recessional, and had to be forcibly removed.  We later saw the same woman at a restaurant and Terry said to me, “Hey, that’s the crazy lady I told you about.” Unfortunately, the woman understood English. And she told Terry that she wasn’t crazy. She does however have conflicting viewpoints from the church. I thought for a minute that the woman might be the owner of the restaurant. The Maitra d asked us if we had a reservation, which unfortunately we didn’t. As he walked us to a restaurant around the corner he did relate that the woman was a bit of a character.