City of Namur Belgium

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After seeing a very detailed model of the Citadel, I felt the need to do a detailed sketch of the city of Namur Belgium seen from the fortress. The four foot high fortress walls made it impossible to sit and do a sketch, although I saw a couple precariously perched on top of the wall. If they fell forward they could drop several hundred feet. Ahhh young love.

I stood at the wall and used the top of the wall as my desk. I was wearing 3 layers for warmth since the winds can get brisk and I needed a waterproof shell since I have been rained on just about every time I start to do a sketch. There was some sort of retreat going on down the hill to my right. They were having a race where two people had to work as a team navigating a series of obstacles.  They had a ball or water balloon between them and they needed to keep it balanced without using their hands. I stopped sketching to watch the hilarity as couple after couple failed. There was also a running group running up and down the thousands of stone steps around the fortress. No, my exercise this morning is to sketch of the city.

I love sketching old forts. I could spend a week here and not run out of sketch opportunities. I kind of regret not sketching the tunnels the American army used as a command post. However, I need to get to the front lines where the troops were preparing to defend the Netherlands at the Meuse River. Different countries s-ell the name of the Meuse differently. I am certain troops at the time often were not sure what town they were in or even what country. They just wanted to survive. I know for sure that Holland was the final destination for 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken who arrived in Europe on about February 17, 1945.

The 75th Infantry histories I have been reading refer to the Netherlands as Holland. That conjures up images of wooden shoes and windmills. Seems like a quiet romantic setting, but not at war time. Before I left, I found a thread from someone who wanted to know how his father might have died in Holland in 1945. His father was also in the 75th Infantry. The Americans were on the West Bank of the Meuse and the Germans on the East bank. Both were in sight of each other maybe 100 yards apart. The most likely cause of a death would be a random mortar blast, or a dangerous trip across the Meuse  River at night to gather intelligence. I do not know if 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was ever on one of these very dangerous recon missions.

 

Namur Belgium: The Citadel Fortress

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It was a rainy day when I went to sketch the Citadel in Namur Belgium. I had to take several breaks from sketching to let the rain die down. There was a quaint little restaurant at the Citadel called Le Fief de Namur and I went there for lunch. It felt very old world and the food was healthy and delicious.  A man at the next table wished me Bon apatite.

The chances that 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken was at this giant fortress are slim, but the 75th Infantry did have a Command Post here. The command post would have been in the labyrinth of tunnels under the fortress. I asked about a tour that is offered of the tunnels stressing that at some point I might want to stop for some time to complete a sketch. I was told that was impossible. I would have to keep up with the tour.

Instead, I decided to walk through the museum in the fortress. The exhibits were impressive coving ancient history from the geological formations to medieval times. The most impressive exhibit was a scale move; of the fortress. Such models were built to study the possible weaknesses of the fortress. The level of detail in the model was impressive. The model has been exhibited in several fine art museums as well. I considered doing a sketch but it would have taken at least 3 hours to complete. I already had several sketches of the fortress and planned to do another of the view overlooking Namur.

The museum exhibit incorporated a series of panels. Some of the panels were blank to represent the many unknown holes to be found in any history. The panels floated through the exhibit as if on a monorail, at times the panels would spiral overhead. When the Citadel became less functional as a protective fort, sections of the vast property were turned into theater and sports complexes. Unfortunately there was little in the museum about WWII. The Germans captured the fort in May of 1940 and then the Allies took it back and used an air field close to the fortress before my father got to Europe in February of 1945.

Namur Belgium: The Citadel

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The Citadel in Namur Belgium sits on the confluence of two large rivers, The Meuse and the Sabre. The Citadel is a huge stone fort that has overlooked those two rivers for centuries. In February of 1945, the tunnels under the Citadel were used by the 75th Infantry as a command post. Napoleon nicknamed the Citadel Europe’s remote mound due to the extensive network of underground tunnels.

The importance of the Citadel diminished when 9 forts were built around the city of Namur Belgium. When the Germans attacked in 1940 the forts fell after 3 days of fighting. Namur was liberated by Allied forces on September 6, 1944. Namur is near where intense fighting incurred at the Battle of the Bulge in Decemeber of 1944. Although the city itself was not the center of the conflict. Perhaps that is why it was once again used an a command post as troops headed north to form a defensive line along the Meuse River up in the Netherlands.

It is possible the 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken might have reported here before joining troops up in the Netherlands. Since 80 years have passed since February of 1945, I decided to sketch anything that might have been around at the time. This tree with it’s age old roots growing over stone work would have certainly been alive and growing at the time.

Charleroi Belgium: Ibis Styles Aero 44

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I find the small pocket sized sketchbook is great for quick informal sketches at moments like waiting for the food to come at dinner. To my right there was a large table full of guys that seemed to be together on a business trip. It was a jovial scene with everyone sharing photos on their cell phones.

Of course in WWII no Infantry soldier was allowed to shoot photos or write anything about where they had been or where they were going. ‘Loose lops sink ships” was the propaganda slogan to encourage troops to keep their lips sealed. My father 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken never wrote or said anything about the war. He kept his lips leaked up until his dying day. As a child I thought I heard him say one that a bullet had hit a tank right next to his leg once. His C-Company platoon was  assigned to work with the 8th Armored Division when the 75th Infantry Division pushed into Germany. So the tank aspect of my vague memory holds up.

Two other 1st Lieuenants from the 75th Infantry did write about their experiences in the war, and I am using their writings as a way to get a sense of what a 1st Lieutenant would have gone through in WWII.

The scene I sketched in the hotel restaurant probably isn’t much different that a scene in an infantry mess hall except for the fact that there was a woman in the room at the far table. Belgium was liberated by February of 1945 when Arthur Thorspecken might have been in the city ready to join the 75th Infantry as they moved up to the Netherlands.

After this dinner, I went up to my room and discovered that my travel credit card was missing. I tore apart my luggage and could not find it anywhere. Then I remembered getting gas on the drive to Charleroi Belgium. The gas pump just wouldn’t work with my card. I got frustrated and finally went inside to pay in Euros. I must have left the card in the machine in my frustration. In the morning I decided to make the drive back to the gas station. It was a long shot, but I had to try. I pulled into the gas station and pulled up to the same gas pump. Of course the card was not in the machine. I went inside the store with a vague hope that some good Samaritan had turned the card in to the attendant. I don’t know how to speak Flemish, but with some German, English and some hand gestures I explained that I had lost my grey card. The color gray caused the attendants eyes to light up. He went in the back room and came out with the card. For once Lucy was on my side. I had a brief retreat but pressed forward to the next city. Now if I use the card in a machine, I keep a finger on it at all times.

Muse des Chasseurs a Pied: Charleroi Belgium

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This is a military museum in Charleroi Belgium (Av du Général Michel 1/B, 6000 Charleroi, Belgium). Translated the museum name is The Museum of Foot Hunters. Charleroi is a city that the 75th infantry used as a Command post at the start of February 1945. It is possible 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken could have reported to this city to join the C-Company troops heading to the Netherlands.

The U.S. 75th Infantry Division was in the Charleroi area of Belgium in February 1945, after operations in the Colmar Pocket and during their advance into the Netherlands. Soldiers received showers and clean clothes there before resuming their journey to engage in fighting along the Maas River in the Netherlands. This period served as a valuable pause, allowing the troops to rest and refresh after intense fighting. The stop in Charleroi was a transition point, where soldiers were equipped and organized before advancing to the next phase of operations. It would be an ideal time for 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken to join the troops as a replacement.

The Museum of Foot Hunters is located in the barracks of Corporal Trésignies in Charleroi, a Belgian hero of the First World War who was a militiaman of the 2nd Regiment of Foot Hunters, killed during an offensive against-the Belgian army at Burned Bridge in Vilvoorde Belgium.

Unfortunately this museum was closed when I got to it. My research showed that there were some sections of the museum devoted to WWII history. High school students were running around the block the whole time I was sketching. Some of the girls stopped running and formed a conversational clutch walking at a brisk walking at a brisk pace. A repairman parked his repair truck right in front of me, so I only focused on the half of the scene that I could see. Luckily my sketch outlasted his repair work and I filled in the areas his truck had been blocking.

It seems amazing that a corporal would have such a luxurious villa in the city center. So did 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken walk past this building? It is possible, since the building certainly pre-dates 1945.

 

 

Winston Churchill Square War Memorial: Charlesville France

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The 75th Infantry Division used Charlesville France as a Command Post as troop headed north to the Netherlands after intense fighting in the Colmar Pocket in France. The Germans had been pushed out of France.

This War Memorial in Charlesville-Menzieres is located in Winston Churchill Square. The memorial commemorated the residents of Charlesville who were killed in the First World War, the Second World War, the wars in Indochina, and Algeria.

The bronze figure is a victorious angel, holding a laurel in one hand and a flag in the other. Translated, the text on the column says, “The City of Charlesville to his children dead for France.”

At the base a seven soldiers rushing forward and looking up towards victory. An injured soldier on his knees, encourages the others to push forward. The large stone base is engraved with the names of the 551 soldiers from Charlesville who died for France.

Gorgeous well tended flowers adorned the base of the memorial. As I sketched school children sat on the benches and ate lunch. A young boy and girl had a long conversation. The girl seemed most interested in devouring her baguette.

Place Ducale, Charlesville France

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Charlesville France was a 75th Infantry Command Post as the troops were moved up into the Netherlands after the Colmar Pocket Campaign in the south of France. The 75th Infantry troops arrived in Panningen Netherlands on February 15, 1945 about 2 days before 1st Lieutenant Arthur Thorspecken might have arrived in Europe. Losses were great after the Battle of the Bulge. Of the over 200 men of the 75th Infantry who went into that battle only 21 men came put alive. Replacements were still desperately needed after the battles in Colmar.

I am assuming Arthur Thorspecken would have reported to a command post before joining his men in the field. There were 5 command posts between Colmar France and Panningen Netherlands, so I sketched each. I can not confirm yet if Arthur was at one or all of these cities leading up into the Netherlands. I am assuming the command post would be packed up each day and moved to a new city.

That is how this sketch trip has progressed. I would arrive in a city, sketch and stay overnight and then pack up and drive to the next city. With finances in question due to my bank refusing to allow access to funds after  a fraud charge on my card, the trip always felt like jumping without a parachute. If I could not get lodging, I could always sleep in the car for a night, but that hasn’t happened.

What I remember about this Charlesville Town Square lunch was that a fly wanted to drink my Coke more than I did. I finally gave up swatting him away and moved the bottle as far away as I could to let the fly sip to his hearts content. There were also hoards of children wandering the streets. Why were they not in class? There was a puppetry museum on the corner of the square, but that wouldn’t relate to 1945, so I let it pass.

After lunch, I went to Winston Churchill Square to sketch a war memorial. I found an odd quote from Winston in a small cafe. It said, ‘You should do something good for the body so the soul enjoys living in it.” – Winston Churchill.  Now Winston was not known for being a fitness buff, so he must have been referring to food and drink.

Charlesville was occupied by Nazi Germany and the military crossed through the square in 104 was part of the Battle of the Ardennes but the square suffered little damage. Charlesville was liberated on August 31, 1944 during the rapid Allied advance through France. The British 2nd Army liberated the city. The city was firmly under Allied control in early February of 1945 when Arthur Thorspecken may have entered the city.

Rhemes France: Koboom

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After the Clamerey, France American WWII Camp Reconstruction, I drove north to Rhemes, France. Between Rhemes and Mourmelon, France My father helped run a Cigarette Camp. Cigarette Camps were set up after Germany surrendered to help troops what would be shipping out back to America. The camp the Arthur Thorspecken helped run was Camp Cleveland. I don’t thing Cleveland is a cigarette brand but other camps had names like Lucky Strike and Marlboro. Other camps were also named after major US Cities.

Since the Cigarette camps were at the last phase of the war, I will post the actual sketches done of the location at the end of this series of sketches. My goal should be to keep the order of the sketch chronological as much as possible. However sketching while I wait for a meal to arrive is basic tourist fare and separate from the other sketches being done. Solders who ran Camp Cleveland did get leave on occasion to go to Paris and Rheims France. Some solder in uniform might be seen in any of the local cafes at the time.

In Rhemes France German General Alfred Jodl signed the act of unconditional surrender of the German Wehrmacht to the Allies on May 7, ending WWII in Europe. The signing took place at General Eisenhower’s headquarters in a building now known as Musee de la Reddition. It is a rather dull looking municipal building which is now a museum. Eisenhower really should have had the surrender signed in a grand palace of which there are many. Rhemes often played a prominent role in the coronation of kings of France. My focus wasn’t on the surrender since my father was not there at the signing. Instead I focused on what I could find of the Cigarette Camp he helped run along with C-Company of the 75th Infantry Division.

Oh, for dinner at Kaboom, I had a delicious Pad Thai and a good old American Coke. The guy I sketched noticed me still sketching as he left. He took a photo before heading back out on the street. The section of the city I was in was pretty swanky with a casinos and very fine dining. I am sure it was very different in 1945.

Loading the Troop Carrier

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As the sun set, the final preparations were being made to break down the American Military Camp. A large canvas tent had been folded up by two soldiers and I believe a nurse. Such preparations would have happened weekly or daily for the men of the 75th Infantry, C-Company.
I was all sketched out and wanted to collapse into a warm bed.  There was still a lot of work to be done to break down the camp, so I found Flourent and let him know that I was going to drive back to the hotel and bed down for the night.
When on the front lines and one the move infantry soldiers didn’t always have the luxury of a full camp set up. Soldiers would sleep wherever they could, be it in abandoned homes, barns or churches.

I showed the woman who was so welcoming, my father’s military identification card. He was just 22 years old and going to Europe as a 1st lieutenant. A first lieutenant is the highest rank where you are out in the field with boots on the ground. Any rank higher and you are behind a desk. A company commander was often a Captain.  C-Company  had 3 platoons with 50 to 200 soldiers. Platoons are broken down into 3-4 squads with 18 to 50 soldiers, then each squad has 6-10 soldiers. A First lieutenant often would lead one of the platoons himself. Often acting as the tip to a spearhead.

A platoon leader was usually a 2nd lieutenant or 1st lieutenant. He would be armed with an M1 carbine rifle.

There would be 1 platoon Sargent or technical Sargent armed with an M1 carbine rifle.

There would be 2 light truck drivers, armed with and M1 rifle and M7 Grenade launcher each.

There would be 2 messengers, each a Private First Class armed with an M1 rifle each.

The platoon headquarters was mounted in 2n1/2 ton trucks or jeeps with trailers acting as weapons and ammunition carriers. One truck would be armed with an M2HB heavy machine gun for local anti air defense. Three bazooka were in the Company weapons pool. Each rifle Company would consist of three rifle platoons, a weapons platoon and a ead Quarters platoon. Each platoon was commanded by a 2nd Lieutenant or 1st

The 75th Infantry’s  1st, 2nd and 3rd Battalions worked together with one battalion often protecting the flanks of another. For this European sketch research trip, I decided I was only sketching the movements of the 1st Battalion, C-Company which is the company Arthur would have been leading. Different Battalions would often set up camp in different towns. It is hard enough to keep track of the movements of one Battalion and Company, I can’t imagine keeping track of all 3.

WWII Americans Break Down Camp

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It was getting late in the day of day what the Clamerey France WWII American Camp Reconstruction. The sun was setting and the light turned golden. I was tired but could not stop sketching. I didn’t want to do any more large sketches, so I turned to my small pocket sketchbook. I love this sketchbook, I picked up when I met an author up in Gainesville Florida. On the front of the sketchbook, it says “ The Creative Ramblings of a Restless Mind.” I love that.

All the troops were planning to go out for drinks and dinner after they were done packing up. In this sketch the father was breaking down a large piece of equipment while his son broke down the 50 mm machine gun.  Actually this family was going to stay in camp one more night so they never took down the tent.

A tent did come down behind me and it took three people to fold and flatten the heavy thick canvas. Once folded and rolled up it was placed in a troop carrier truck. The American flag kept waving on the flag pole as the sun set.

Before it got too dark, I was asked to pose with all the troops in front of one of the military vehicles. Every one shouted out the local military drinking song which involved clapping your hands and shouting the lyrics as you rotated your wrists while waving your hands above your head. I sang along, although I didn’t know what the lyrics mean. We all shouted and laughed and then the photo was taken. Look at the light in the photo, it was warm and golden. Such amazing people. I’m in love either way each and every one of them.