COVID Disenbarks

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A cruise ship with 800 COVID-19 infected passengers docked in Sydney, Australia. The Majestic Princess cruise ship was about half way through the scheduled cruise when the infection spread among the passengers and crew like a wildfire. There were 4,600 passengers and crew passengers and crew on board. Infected guests were isolated in their staterooms being separated from non-infected guests.

The infected passengers were escorted off the ship and “advised” to isolate for five days. What passenger will self isolate when they are on vacation? You can bet the infected are rushing out to every restaurant and crowded venue in Sydney. They will justify their mindless and violent, act saying they are only mildly infectious.

This seems to be the new normal, knowing that you will likely be infected when you book your dream horror cruise. The New South Wales Ministry of Health has recorded 19,800 new cases of Covid-19 and 22 deaths in the past week. In America, the new normal is over 300 deaths due to COVID every day.

At least three other ships within the company’s Princess fleet, the Ruby Princess, Diamond Princess, and Grand Princess – experienced outbreaks earlier in the pandemic. A spokesman for Carnival Cruises said, Fuck the health of the passengers, they are mindless brain eating zombies, give us your god damn money.

Why don’t airports have recliners for everyone?

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Our final leg in Australia was a long drive from Ballerat to Sydney. The large highways offer as boring a view as any highway in America. Australians however have signs warning motorists to take breaks to stay safe. In America we just stress “click it or ticket” for our safety. We decided to stay at a Sydney Airport hotel. The hotel was right next to a junk yard. I still wish I had sketched the rusty mountains of auto parts as my final view from down under.

Sydney has a very modern airport and Terry decided to go shopping before we boarded. That of course gave me time for one final sketch. When I sketch I become invisible and she wasn’t able to locate me in the waiting area. We fired texts back and forth to find each other as the plane boarded.  The woman seated right in front of me looked quite uncomfortable trying to take a nap. This is how I felt for the entire twenty hour flight back to Orlando. I just can’t sleep on planes, so I watched movies non-stop.

In Australia they drive on the wrong side of the road, water swirls down a drain backwards and the sun moves backwards across the sky. They have gun control, offer a free higher education and have an amazing health care system. Melbourne is infectiously welcoming to artists. I consider it my home away from home.

The Ferry to Manly offers great views of Sydney.

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As a day trip from Sydney, Terry and I decided to take a ferry to Manly Beach in Australia. The Ferry docks are right near the Opera House and that whole area is tourist central with street performers fighting for tourists attention and tips. Several aboriginals sat playing their didgeridoos. One guy had a high wire act where he balanced above the crows riding his bicycle on a wire. Terry and I didn’t stop to watch the chaos. Our ferry was leaving in a few minutes so we rushed through the terminal.

The hour or so ferry ride was very pleasant. It was early spring in Australia so a few people were still bundled up. Sail boats dotted the entire harbor. When we docked in Manly, we walked a quarter mile or so down the main street which lead to the beach. We both ordered a frozen yogurt cone with plenty of fixings and then we found a shady spot on a ledge that overlooked the beach. There was a large group of school children learning how to surf. Others tossed Frisbees or just lay in the sun like harbor seals.

On the ferry ride back to Sydney, I put the sketchbook away and just enjoyed the ever changing view. These ferry rides are a real deal and it is a great way to discover Sydney very much the way British explorers did hundreds of years ago.

A quick flight back to Sydney.

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Getting too and from Ayers Rock is exhausting in and of itself since Australia is so large. Virgin Airways always served a decent meal for each flight and the stewardesses had tight little buns in their hair that made them seem like they stepped off of a 1960’s airplane.  Back in Sydney, we walked the streets and explored the parks and historic museums. There was gorgeous architecture from the gold rush era and then modern skyscrapers going up everywhere.

By this time, I was getting a little tired of sketching the view down the length of the airplane. I’d love it if I could swivel my seat and sketch the view looking back. Perhaps someday I’ll set up my artist stool in the aisle looking back. It would be just my luck to then get run over by a rogue snack cart. I think this digital sketch is the first one I wrote a date on. It is a good practice and I’ve continued the practice moving forward. I’ve recently been seeing tons of ancient ruins and the only thing that remains from centuries past are rocks. A library was empty and the few sculptures found have been moved to museums. What will become of digital art in the future? Will there be an Internet a thousand years from now? I keep pouring my sketches and thoughts into this new digital medium, but will it last?

Morning at Jabiru Safari Lodge.

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Terry went on an early morning jeep safari with the other avid birders at Jabiru Safari Lodge in Australia. That left my morning open to sketch the lodge. I was seated right next to the lake as I sketched. I started hearing splashing noises behind me and was surprised to see a wild boar skinny dipping in the lake. He would dip his head under the water and let it roll off his back. He splashed around for a good ten minutes or so before he got out shook off his coat and started walking down the trail towards me. When he finally noticed me sitting there, he took off with a grunt and darted into the woods with a few nimble bounds. I’m glad he was more startled than I was because if he chose to charge, I would have been screwed. I was wide awake and thrilled. What a way to start the day!

When the jeep got back Terry and I had breakfast on the patio. Terry was excited by all the species of birds that had been spotted. The expert birders could pick out birds by their calls and knew how to spot them at great distances. Over breakfast Terry noted the birds she had seen on her Australian bird list. She had purchased a bird book in Sydney‘s Royal Botanical Gardens and already most of the birds pictures were checked off.

Flying from Ayers Rock to Sydney and back up to Cairns Australia.

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Australia is larger than the United States. If Ayers Rock were about where Kansas City is, then Cairns would be a flight to NYC. However, we had to fly south to Sydney which would be the equivalent of a flight to Orlando and then we caught a second plane to fly up to Cairns (NYC distance). What could have been a short hop over flight, ended up taking most of the day. I can’t complain too much however since there was plenty of time to sketch in the airport.

Cairns is a beautiful coastal town but by the time we got there, it was dark and we were getting punchy. Finding the Lilybank Bed and Breakfast (75 Kamerunga Rd, Stratford QLD 4870) while driving the rental at night was stressful.  We searched for house numbers but they weren’t illuminated. I knew we must have passed the place not to far back, so I parked the car on the street and started walking the neighborhood. I figured I would see house numbers better on foot. Terry was furious, calling for directions. We both found the place about the same time.

I loved this Bed and Breakfast and would have liked to spend more time there. The Queenslander-style property had old fashioned wood slated windows and it looked like it belonged in the outback. There was a lily pond built inside the patio and the proprietress pointed out a large bull frog that hides in different foliage each day. She was searching for a koi fish , which I thought I saw, but then I realized it was light reflecting off one of the windows on the water’s surface. There was a nice pool outside but we never stayed long enough to relax beside it.

Over breakfast she told us a story about “Naughty Ned.” Ned was married, but had a wandering eye. It seems he couldn’t keep himself from flirting and having affairs. His wife left him but they remained friends. He had an odd hobby in that he loved to collect bees. This was strange because he was allergic to bees. Ned took the usual precautions with the bee keepers suit and smoker. He purchased several hives from a neighbor and his former wife helped in the move. For some reason the bees left the hive and congregated way up in a tree. In a fit, Ned climbed the tree with a saw and decided that cutting the branch would get the bees down. He wasn’t wearing his bee suit and he was stung hundreds of times. lt wasn’t a great idea. His wife rushed off to get his epi shot but her panic, she pricked herself with the needle. As she searched for a second shot, Ned died. I’m not sure what the moral of the story is. Perhaps, don’t be naughty, or better yet don’t collect bees if you are allergic to them.

Melbourne Australia is alive with culture.

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From Sydney, Terry and I flew to Melbourne Australia. Even the taxi ride from the airport to the Windsor Hotel was exciting. Melbourne has to be the most modern city I have ever visited. I craned my neck looking out the taxi window to see modern skyscrapers that were vibrant works of art. One was covered with colored panels that must have functioned as shades for the glass structure beneath. the panels created yellow, lime green and Orange waves. Just driving through the city you could feel the way art influenced the public spaces. I was told that there are more events in Melbourne than there are days in the year. There was opulence and excess everywhere with changes clearly still under way.

The Windsor Hotel built in 1883, was right across the street from the historic House of Parliament (no, not the Parliament House). A historic trolley station was right in front of the hotel. The entire trolley car had been painted by a local artist thanks to a city commission. Both the Parliament and the Windsor were architectural gems, build from gold rush money at the turn of the century. The Windsor is notable for being Australia’s only surviving grand 19th century city hotel and only official “grand” Victorian era hotel. The Hotel Windsor has a 5-star rating and is considered one of the grandest hotels in Melbourne. It is renowned for it’s long list of dignitaries and celebrities who have stayed there over the years including the Duke and Dutchess of York, Margaret Thatcher, Meryl Streep,  Anthony Hopkins, Gregory Peck, Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh, Katharine Hepburn, Basil Rathbone, Lauren Bacall, and Douglas Fairbanks, I didn’t see any of them walking the halls.

After a full day of travel, I decided to just sketch our hotel room before getting some sleep. Terry checked her social media, but my phone remained off for the duration of the trip. My tablet that I sketched on, also doubled as a way to check e-mails where the hotels had Wi-Fi. So I wasn’t completely “off grid”. There were several Theatres just a block from the Hotel. Her Majesty’s Theatre built in 1886, was performing Les Miserables, and The Princess Theatre was presenting the hit musical Once about a song writer and his muse. The smash hit new musical (based on the movie of the same name) stormed
the Tony Awards in 2012 taking home eight, including Best Actor, Best
Book and Best Musical. I hadn’t seen this show before so I was thinking of going alone on the night of Terry’s reunion, since I wasn’t invited to that. Even sketching the theatre’s opulent exterior at night would have made for a great sketch. I was excited to dive in and start sketching this cities rich cultural scene.

A beach nap on the drive back to Sydney Australia.

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From Eden, Terry and I had a seven hour drive back to Sydney Australia. Our ultimate destination after a flight was Melboune where Terry was going to a reunion. Her senior year in high school, Terry was an exchange student and she spent the year in Melbourne going to Lauriston Girls School. Half way up the coast, we stopped at Malua Bay. We ordered lunch and ate it on the beach. I had a fish and chips. A couple sat contemplating the waves.  Terry took a nap while I sketched. Gorgeous yellow flowers bloomed all along the dune’s edge. This is what a vacation should be like with some rest and relaxation.

The nap was short lived however because we had many hours to go on our drive back to Sydney. Eden is more than half way down the coast towards Melbourne, so it would have made more sense to drive south to Melbourne. But car rental rates skyrocket if you drop a car off at a city other than the one you picked it up in. Apparently a plane flight was cheaper than the increase in the rental rate. The drive back seemed so much longer than the drive down. There wasn’t and sense of discovery. We had already traveled these roads.

By the time we were approaching Sydney, the sun had set and the stress lever rose as the traffic got faster and more aggressive. I must say however that Australian drivers are much better than Florida drivers. I drove at the speed limit and was only passed once or twice during the seven hour drive. There are signs on all the highways that insist that divers get some rest to avoid becoming a fatality. By this point, Terry and I were both used to driving on the wrong side of the road. Once or twice we each turned into a wrong lane but that’s when a side seat driver’s warning is appreciated. I scrapped up the hub caps on the car pretty good because I like to park snug to the curb. When I had an SUV, the tires were so big that only rubber bumped the curb. But the little rental and my gas saving Prius have tiny tires with hubcaps that look like they came from a war zone. I only scrap the tires on the passenger side, so as the driver I never actually see the damage. Out of sight, out of mind.

Eden is the place to go for whale watching.

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From Sydney Australia, Terry and I rented a car and drove south to Eden. It was a full days drive. Australia is deceptively large. We stayed at Eagle Heights (2 Yule Street, Eden NSW 2551, Australia) which is perched right on the edge of cliffs over looking the bay. From our little patio you could look out over the expanse of water. I love the twisted ways that trees grow when they are affected by salty winds. A gazebo offered a telescope in case whales were spotted. Terry becomes incredibly patient when wild life viewing. We never did spot whales from our cliff perch but we might have spotted blow spouts which are the fine mists created when whales exhale. The spouts were so far out that they might have just been sea mist.

At the foot of the hill there was a place where we ordered fish and chips for our first dinner. It was the best fish and chips I had ever tasted. Exhausted we immediately drifted off to sleep. I believe this sketch was done the next day, very early in the morning as the sun rose. Just beyond that fence is a steep drop to the bay. Waves crashed the rocks that had spilled into the water. We had come to Eden to see whales and come hell or high water we would find them. The town has a siren that fires off any time whales are spotted in the bay. It was a rare instance where we hoped to hear a siren blaze. From October 31 to November 2 this quaint fishing village is home to the annual Eden Whale Festival. The festival is celebrating its 19th year in 2015 and will combine art, street
theatre, film, music, exploration, seafood and local produce along with
good old fashioned festival fun. Terry and I missed the festival by a week, but it sounds like a good reason to go back. Our time was divided between bird watching, whale watching and the occasional sketch.

The Marble Bar in Sydney is a popular retreat for locals.

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In Sydney Australia Terry found the opulent Marble Bar (488 George Street Sydney NSW 2000) where we relaxed over several drinks between our tourist rushes. The bar was first built in 1883 in the former Adams Hotel on Pitts Street. The entire venue was painstakingly dismantled and moved to it’s present location at the Hilton Sydney. The original George Adams Bar was built for the then astronomical price of 32,000 pounds. The money was secured through the Tattersall Sweeps, one of a series of horse races held in New South Whales at the end of the 1800s. The decoration of the bar followed the traditions of the Italian Renaissance with Corinthian columns capped by solid brass capitols. 100 tons of marble were used from the best Belgium and African mines. Decorative stained glass panels can be found everywhere giving the room a warm magical glow.

A few people were curious as my sketch progressed. Locals are proud of this historic bar. A women stopped to tell us the bars entire history. I ordered a tasty Charlie Chaplin simply because I like the silent era comedian. The Charlie Chaplin Cocktail was one of the premier drinks of the Waldorf-Astoria prior to 1920. It has an equal mix of lime, apricot brandy and sloe gin and is documented in A.S. Crockett‘s The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book and it’s a nice, gentle mix, which is sweet and tasty.

A huge party of well dressed patrons soon filled the bar. They might have been from a wedding or business group, I couldn’t decide.  The dress code of the bar is “smart casual” and Terry and I might not have met the code since our dress code wan “casual tourist.” We and I returned upstairs to the busy modern streets of Sydney stepping from the romance of this historic time capsule.