A quick flight back to Sydney.

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Getting too and from Ayers Rock is exhausting in and of itself since Australia is so large. Virgin Airways always served a decent meal for each flight and the stewardesses had tight little buns in their hair that made them seem like they stepped off of a 1960’s airplane.  Back in Sydney, we walked the streets and explored the parks and historic museums. There was gorgeous architecture from the gold rush era and then modern skyscrapers going up everywhere.

By this time, I was getting a little tired of sketching the view down the length of the airplane. I’d love it if I could swivel my seat and sketch the view looking back. Perhaps someday I’ll set up my artist stool in the aisle looking back. It would be just my luck to then get run over by a rogue snack cart. I think this digital sketch is the first one I wrote a date on. It is a good practice and I’ve continued the practice moving forward. I’ve recently been seeing tons of ancient ruins and the only thing that remains from centuries past are rocks. A library was empty and the few sculptures found have been moved to museums. What will become of digital art in the future? Will there be an Internet a thousand years from now? I keep pouring my sketches and thoughts into this new digital medium, but will it last?

Emerald Creek Falls offers bird watching for experts and novices.

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Terry and I tagged along on a day trip with two expert birders. Our destination was Emerald Creek because there was some internet buzz that a rare Australian bird had been spotted there. We stopped quite often on the drive over since birds were being spotted left and right. When we got to the creek, I started to sketch while they explored with binoculars and spotting scopes. The last time I was on an outing like this it was with a group looking for a rare elusive three toed woodpecker. The pack went off into the woods and I decided to stay in the parking lot in the warm car. A three toed woodpecker flew right into the parking lot giving me a front row seat. When the pack of birders returned they were upset since all their calls and high tech equipment had failed to yield a single sighting.

In Australia I wasn’t as lucky but I got a fine sketch of the creek and the poor tree that had been scared by the love affair of Roy and Kat. Perhaps these two got matching tattoos as well. Perhaps in a decade the tree’s scar will heal but they could take their tattoos to their graves. I worked quickly on the sketch and finished just as the birders returned.

Morning at Jabiru Safari Lodge.

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Terry went on an early morning jeep safari with the other avid birders at Jabiru Safari Lodge in Australia. That left my morning open to sketch the lodge. I was seated right next to the lake as I sketched. I started hearing splashing noises behind me and was surprised to see a wild boar skinny dipping in the lake. He would dip his head under the water and let it roll off his back. He splashed around for a good ten minutes or so before he got out shook off his coat and started walking down the trail towards me. When he finally noticed me sitting there, he took off with a grunt and darted into the woods with a few nimble bounds. I’m glad he was more startled than I was because if he chose to charge, I would have been screwed. I was wide awake and thrilled. What a way to start the day!

When the jeep got back Terry and I had breakfast on the patio. Terry was excited by all the species of birds that had been spotted. The expert birders could pick out birds by their calls and knew how to spot them at great distances. Over breakfast Terry noted the birds she had seen on her Australian bird list. She had purchased a bird book in Sydney‘s Royal Botanical Gardens and already most of the birds pictures were checked off.

The Jabiru Safari Tents had all the comforts of home.

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As the sun set, we settled into our Jabiru Safari Lodge Tents in the Australian outback. I tried to keep it zipped up to keep the bugs out. There were also Emu’s on property so I wanted to keep them out as well. The tent had two twin beds along with lights on the bed stands. I find it hard to fall asleep in a tent since you can hear every bug and animal. There was the sound of something prowling about but when I stuck my head out to look, I didn’t see anything in the dark. The shower behind the tent was open air and ants liked to stop by probably for the moisture.

Terry relaxed and read her Vogue magazine while I sketched.  Most of the day, Terry went on a birding trip with several birding experts who were staying in the tent next to ours. One of them had seen more birds in one year than anyone else. That title must be based on the honor system because sometimes birds are so far away that you couldn’t be 100% sure of its identity. I think birders should be required to sketch every bird they identify.  That would cut down on the numbers and guarantee that the birder took the time to look at every feature of plumage and structure. Perhaps I will sketch every bird I see in a year. Whatever the number, I have a good chance of seizing the title of the most birds sketched. I wouldn’t kill them like Audubon, but sketch them on location if they cooperate.

Glamping at Jabiru Safari Lodge in Australia.

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Terry became quite obsessed about seeing as many of Australia‘s indigenous birds as she could. To beef up her bird list, we went to Jabiru Safari Lodge (Pickford Road | PO Box 1364, Mareeba, Queensland 4880, Australia ) where we camped in the outback. We as usual, got lost on the drive there. A wrong turn sent us into a herd of cattle. A few phone calls eventually got us to the site. There were two huge tents set up on permanent wooden platforms. By the time we arrived, the sun was setting making the trees light up a bright orange. I immediately sketched the new domicile while Terry went for a hike. The tent came complete with a working shower out back, and a small refrigerator and fans to cool us down. It was definitely a step up from the tiny pup tent I took on my cross country bike trek as a teen.

In this part of the country there are large round jar shaped structures found everywhere. They are the homes to termites and some are more than six feet high. There were several right in front of our tent. What makes this area unique is that a large man made lake has been created that is a magnate for tons of migrating and local birds.  There is a lodge right on the water where you can relax and have a drink as the sun sets. Barn swallows have nests in the rafters and the parents are always busy sweeping in to give food to the chirping chicks in the nests.

Thala Beach in Australia offered an intimate hike on the Fringing Reef.

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While Terry went birding with an experienced guide in Thalia, Australia I took a hike down to the beach for a quick second sketch. As the trail opened up to the beach, I discovered a bee hive in a branch that crossed the trail. There were far more rocky outcrops than there was beach.

Being a pale white vampire, I decided that I needed to find shade before I started any attempt at putting the jagged landscape on paper. I found this narrow alleyway of sand between the rocks and I scrunched down and sat in the shade which was quickly disappearing as the sun rose in the sky. This sketch was done quickly and almost flippantly because I was racing the sun. When the sun crept onto the page, I was blinded by it’s whiteness. I darkened the page with washes to darken it up a bit. I got a text from Terry letting me know that she Was done with her birding for the day. I decided the sketch was done and I scrambled up on the rocks again to find my way back to the hotel. I love looking in the tide pools to see what life has been stranded as the ocean receded. Blue craps hid from my sight and tiny fish swam for what little cover they could find.

Terry and I drove up the coast to explore more rain forests and beach side resorts. It was a scenic and relaxing day with very little traffic on the road. We hiked up a gorge and got lost along the way. When it got too hot, we stripped down to our skivvies and waded into the freezing cold river. We didn’t actually get lost, but the trail went much further than we expected. We got more than our share of nature for one day.

Thala Beach Nature Reserve is a gorgeous retreat.

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Terry and I drove up the Australian coast towards Port Douglas. We stopped at Thala Beach Lodge and Nature Reserve (5078 Captain Cook Highway, Oak Beach QLD 4877, Australia). The lodging consisted of a series of bungalow tree houses on stilts. Terry had purchased a book that identified all of Australia’s bird species. She was in heaven with her eyes in the tree branches. There are walking trails all throughout the 145 acre property and on one hike we saw wallaby’s grazing on the grass. A wallaby looks like a kangaroo, but is a bit smaller and cuter. Our room came with a gift basket and champagne, so as the sun set, we popped the cork and relaxed.

I had a leisurely breakfast alone while Terry took an early morning nature walk with the reserves birding expert. The deck of the restaurant overlooked the Daintree Rainforest‘s tree canopy towards the ocean. A tree branch had a hollow that was filled with water and colorful lorikeets would battle the other birds for a turn at the bird bath. Only one bird could fit into the notch at a time so there was a constant chirping negotiation as birds waited for a turn. There is a live web cam overlooking this bird bath. With time to myself, I decided to hike down to the beach and see if I could squeeze in a second sketch before starting another day of sight seeing. Terry returned very excited about all the rare species of birds she had seen. I was satisfied with the two species I had watched at the bird bath.

Kuranda’s Australian Butterfly Sanctuary was a quiet retreat.

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Kuranda‘s Australian Butterfly Sanctuary is located right next to the Original Markets. Terry and I decided to go inside for a look. Unfortunately a whole school bus of local school children arrived shortly after us. All the school kids had on blue uniforms. The kids were actually pretty well behaved and it was nice to see the level of excitement and wonder on their faces.

The Australian Butterfly Sanctuary is
home to over 1500 magnificent tropical butterflies that are hand reared on the premises.

All are local rain forest species, including an iconic Kuranda butterfly, the electric blue Ulysses Butterfly, and the majestic fluoro green and yellow Cairns Birdwing.

The aviary, set in the midst of Kuranda rain forest, was opened in 1987 and has been visited by over a
million people since. Guided tours through the aviary and laboratory are conducted throughout the day, detailing a butterfly’s life cycle and behavior.

The place is thick with colorful species and they will land on you.  Several landed on my sketch, perhaps thinking that the bright watercolor washes might be a delicious nectar. Terry and I ate lunch in town. She wanted to get meat pies anywhere we went. I ordered one as well, but I couldn’t stop thinking of the Demon Barber of Fleet Street. That thought might have affected my taste buds.

Dreadlocks and Hair Extensions at the Hidden Echidna.

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From Cairnes Australia, we decided to drive up into the mountainous Rainforest, to a town called Karanda. This town is set up with kitschy shops that cater to bus loads of tourists who mob the main street. 0ff the main drag is the Kuranda Original Rainforest Markets which began in 1978 on Honey House
land by a group of local people trying to attract visitors to Kuranda.
At that time, the village was very small with many “Hippie Artists” and
craft people. The markets needed to operate their own train for two
seasons to prove the viability of the service to the Railway Department.

Now the markets have been an amazing success, providing employment for
many, while the town is recognized as a unique Australian rainforest
destination.

In 2006 the current owners began an ambitious undertaking to
completely renovate the original market site. In keeping with the rustic
atmosphere that the original markets were famous for, Malcolm and Ian
McLeod created a miniature village in the rainforest, with rustic touches and bright colors at every turn, tropical gardens and colorful
characters.

The Original Markets are predominantly available to artisans and
craftspeople. You will find locally designed and produced fashions; hand
crafted jewellery; indigenous artists; leather workers; masseurs;
woodworkers and gemstone specialists, as well as North Queensland’s best
range of honeys; local coffee; cafes; tropical fruits; coconuts and
macadamia nuts.

Terry stopped at The Hidden Echidna and on a whim decided to get dreadlocks made from her patch of purple died hair.  Amber, who had a gorgeous mane of blond dreadlocks took care of Terry. The hut was filled with portraits done by Amber Moon (Lunar Sun) of famous people like Mother Teresa, Gandhi, and Dali. Bowls were filled with beads which are used to cap off dreadlocks once they are made. She was able to make three dreadlocks that still remain today. Artegon here in Orlando could learn a thing or two from this market. In Orlando artists rent a cage in a former mall whereas in Kuranda, artists get a rustic shack with character that feels like a quirky community. I was tempted by some hand bound sketchbooks and Terry purchased some intricate Indian curtains for our bedroom.

Experiencing the Great Barrier Reef

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The boat out to the Great Barrier Reef left early. On the Reef Magic Cruise Ship I had a shady outside aft deck where I could keep my eyes on the horizon. The ocean was calm and so was my stomach. The boat took us to a large off shore platform called Marine World. From here you could choose to take a helicopter flight, a glass bottom boat, scuba diving, or our choice, snorkeling. I had thought ahead and put on my full body neoprene snorkel suit which keeps me warm and blocks sunburn. Rentals for flippers, snorkels and a mask were quite affordable. The water was warm enough so that some people went out without a protective layer, but they got burnt. I wondered why we weren’t warned against the use of liquid sun screen. Imagine all those chemicals diffusing in the water and sinking down towards the corals. I’m sure it can’t be good for this delicate Eco-system.

I used to have a 200 gallon in wall reef tank that I set up in my home. Getting the right balance of light, calcium, temperature and nutrients is difficult.  Some people have computer systems that keep all these levels in check, but I just checked the chemistry weekly while doing massive water changes. It was an amazing amount of work, yet worth it because in its prime, the tank was gorgeous. Then algae took hold and spread. At first I kept it in check with algae eating fish like Gobies but soon it was out of control. I did several large oil paintings of friends reef tanks and then dismantled my tank and patched the hole in the wall. I hung an oil painting where the tank used to be. This way I got to appreciate the beauty without the hard work of keeping it all alive.

Terry and I floated out on the water and stayed fairly close together. I made it my responsibility to follow her movements. The reef was unimaginably immense and gorgeous. I swam over a brain coral that was the size of a small house. Plate Corals giant open palms caught the sunlight while soft corals waved in the gentle currents. Everywhere I looked, I saw corals that I used to have in my tank, but here they were part of a large thriving community. Near the platform a grouper as large as me swam lazily by. Fish swam together in schools, darting in between coral structures. In several spots the coral grew so close to the surface of the water, that I had to suck my tummy in to keep from touching them as I floated over. Out near the edge of the roped off area, the reef suddenly dropped down creating a reef wall. Hundreds of feet down, I could see sting rays swimming on the sandy bottom. This was the environment I had tried to recreate with my tank, but the reality is so much more overwhelming. I could hear Trigger Fish chomping on corals and a Tang swam up to my mask to stare at me.

One part of the reef disturbed me. There was a mountain of dead Staghorn coral skeletons. When alive these corals are brightly colored. The dead skeletons were white. Clearly scuba divers must patrol this area of the reef each night after the tourists have left and they collect the dead corals and drop them in this pile. Hard skeleton corals like the Staghorns are the hardest to keep alive in a reef tank. A sudden spike in temperature can cause the delicate flesh to peel away from the skeleton. Despite the colorful beauty all over the reef, I began to notice signs of stress and decay. I recognized the signs because I was always trying to keep my corals healthy in my small Eco-system. Terry and I floated out on the reef as long as we could. I’m so happy I got to see this miracle of nature up close. It may not be there forever.

Back on the platform the staff set up an immense buffet lunch. People piled the food up on their plates like this was their last meal. I barely ate, instead drinking lots of water for fear of sea sickness on the boat ride back. I did get a bit dizzy in the hectic rush of removing the tight snorkeling suit. The platform pitched ever so gently. I’m proud to say I survived the boat ride back. I was starving when we got back to dry land. That night we went out to a wonderful seafood restaurant called Barnacle Bills (103 Esplanade, Cairns QLD 4870, Australia). It was expensive, but well worth it. I had a second glass of wine and loved the world on the walk back to Shangrila. Back at the hotel, I found out that a two inch strip of my forehead had gotten a bright red burn. There seems to have been a gap between the hood and the scuba mask. Exhausted, burnt and satiated, I blacked out, the second my head hit the pillow. Perhaps a vacation from all this vacationing is in order.